1. Early Life and Background
Naomi Uemura's formative years were marked by a humble rural upbringing and a transformative encounter with mountaineering, which collectively shaped his unique character and adventurous spirit.
1.1. Birth and Childhood
Naomi Uemura was born on February 12, 1941, in Kaminogo, Hidaka, which is now part of Toyooka, Hyōgo Prefecture, Japan. He was the youngest of seven children (four elder brothers and two elder sisters) born to Fujiro and Ume Uemura, whose family had traditionally engaged in agriculture and later also began manufacturing straw ropes. His birth name was intended to be `Naomi` (直巳), incorporating the character `Nao` (直) from his great-great-grandfather, Uemura Naosuke, and `mi` (巳) from the zodiac sign of the Snake. However, due to a clerical error at the village office, his family register officially recorded his name as `Naoi` (直已). Later, during his university years, he adopted the name `Naomi` (直己), preferring `ki` (己, meaning "self") as he found it "cooler" than `mi` (巳, meaning "snake") or `i` (已, meaning "already").
He attended Kōfu Village Fuchū Elementary School (now Toyooka Municipal Fuchū Elementary School) from April 1947 and Kōfu Village Fuchū Junior High School (now Toyooka Municipal Hidaka East Junior High School) from April 1953. In April 1956, he entered Hyōgo Prefectural Toyooka High School. During his first year, he hiked Mount Sobu (3.5 K ft (1.07 K m)) on a school trip, but initially showed little interest in mountains. He graduated from high school in March 1959. In April of the same year, he took a job at Shin Nihon Transport in Toyooka City. A month later, he transferred to the Ryōgoku branch in Tokyo, aspiring to work in the city. He resigned from Shin Nihon Transport in February 1960.
1.2. Education and Mountaineering Club Activities
In April 1960, Uemura enrolled in the Department of Agricultural Manufacturing at Meiji University's Faculty of Agriculture. His decision to attend university in Tokyo was driven by a belief that academic credentials were essential for success in the city. He chose Agricultural Manufacturing because it had fewer applicants, making admission relatively easier. Upon entering Meiji University, he joined the mountaineering club, hoping to escape the urban sprawl, find friends, and build self-confidence through climbing, despite having no prior experience or knowledge of the sport. His initial outing to Mount Shirouma in the Japanese Alps for a freshman welcoming camp left him exhausted and humiliated. He described it as one of the most miserable experiences of his life.
Following this, Uemura embarked on a rigorous training regimen, including daily 5.6 mile (9 km) runs on mountain paths, and dedicated himself to climbing, spending 120-130 days a year in the mountains. He was deeply influenced by Gaston Rébuffat's "Starlight and Storm" and particularly by the book "Solo" by Buntarō Katō, a fellow Hyōgo native. During his third year of university, he undertook a five-day solo trip through the Kurobe Gorge, reaching various peaks and valleys without a tent, relying solely on snow caves for shelter. This unapproved solo venture, combined with other secret solo climbs, led to reprimands from the club, but also showcased his burgeoning independence. By his fourth year, he became a sub-leader of the mountaineering club. His senior and close friend, Masanao Kobayashi, shared stories of walking on the glaciers of Denali (then Mount McKinley) in Alaska, igniting Uemura's aspiration for international mountaineering. His tuition fees during this time were supported by his eldest brother, Osamu Uemura.
Initially, Uemura aimed to climb Mount Niitaka (now Yushan) in Taiwan after graduation, but his visa application was denied, forcing him to abandon the plan. In March 1964, he graduated from Meiji University's Faculty of Agriculture. In April 1964, he re-enrolled in the Faculty of Law at Meiji University, likely believing that student status would be advantageous for overseas travel.
2. Early Adventures and First Ascents of the Five Continents' Highest Peaks
Naomi Uemura's early adventures were characterized by audacious solo expeditions across continents, culminating in his unprecedented achievement of becoming the first person to summit the highest peaks on five continents.
2.1. Beginning of Overseas Journeys and European Alps Expeditions
In 1964, at the age of 23, Uemura decided to see the glaciers of the European Alps. Lacking funds, he planned to earn money in the United States, a country with a higher standard of living, before heading to Europe. Despite strong family objections-which even led him to a three-day hunger strike-his eldest brother, Osamu Uemura, eventually understood and approved his journey, providing him with the one-way ship fare. On May 2, Uemura departed from Yokohama Port on the emigrant ship `Argentina Maru` bound for Los Angeles, carrying only 110 USD (approximately 40.00 K JPY at the time) and 3.50 K JPY that he had saved from odd jobs, including steeplejack work. His appearance was humble, with worn climbing boots, a pickaxe, and a rucksack filled with used climbing gear.
After arriving in San Pedro, Los Angeles, Uemura worked illegally picking grapes at a farm near Fresno, California. In late September, he was caught by immigration authorities for unauthorized employment. Despite speaking some English, he feigned ignorance, repeating "I don't speak English" until a Japanese-American interpreter was called. He then "chattered like a machine gun" about his dream of saving money for climbing, which led to a sympathetic officer allowing him to avoid deportation, though he was ordered to leave the country. On October 22, he boarded a ship from New York City to Le Havre, France, arriving in Chamonix at the end of October.
On November 10, Uemura attempted a solo ascent of Mont Blanc (16 K ft (4.81 K m)), Europe's highest peak. On the third day, he fell into a hidden crevasse on the Bossons Glacier. He avoided falling to the bottom, knocked unconscious but fortunately snagged by his crampons and backpack. Frightened by the experience, he retreated. By the end of the year, he found work as a ski patroller at the Avoriaz ski resort in Morzine, near the Swiss border, managed by Jean Vuarnet, an Olympic alpine ski medalist. Although he was not a skilled skier, he impressed Vuarnet during his interview, who, despite seeing through his "good skier" claim, hired him. He used this base to fund his climbing activities, often living in an unheated machinery hut at the top of the gondola and subsisting on French fries, bread, and soup to save money, which led to a month-long hospitalization for jaundice, with Vuarnet covering his medical bills.
In 1965, Uemura temporarily left his job to join the Meiji University mountaineering club's expedition to Gojunba Kang (Cho Oyu II, 25 K ft (7.65 K m)) in Nepal. He arrived in Kathmandu on February 19, his airfare covered by his elder brother. On March 31, they established base camp. On April 23, Uemura, along with Sherpa Pemba Tenzing, achieved the first ascent of the peak. Feeling undeserving due to his late arrival and minimal involvement in planning, and seeing his name prominently featured in Japanese newspapers, he declined to return to Japan with the team, stating to a friend that he felt like a "thieving cat." After this, he returned to France, sailing from Bombay (now Mumbai) to Marseille.
In July 1966, Uemura successfully completed a solo ascent of Mont Blanc. On July 25, he followed this with a solo ascent of Matterhorn (15 K ft (4.48 K m)) via the Italian West Ridge route. On September 23, he sailed from Marseille to Mombasa, Kenya, to undertake an African mountaineering trip. On October 16, he summited Mount Kenya's Lenana Peak (16 K ft (4.99 K m)), accompanied by a guide for the jungle approach. He had to abandon the main Batian Peak (17 K ft (5.20 K m)) due to its challenging rock climbing. On October 24, he successfully made a solo ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro (19 K ft (5.90 K m)), the highest peak in Africa. He returned to Morzine on October 29. He had wished to climb Rwenzori (17 K ft (5.11 K m)) in Uganda, but lack of funds prevented him.
In August 1967, Uemura visited Greenland to prepare for a solo traverse, spending half a month observing the Jakobshavn Glacier. He hoped to live with the Inuit but could not communicate due to language barriers, so he camped alone outside Sokatupun village. His dream of a solo Greenland traverse was put on hold after the Nihon University team completed it in 1968.
2.2. South American Expeditions and Solo Amazon River Rafting
In December 1967, Uemura left Morzine and sailed from Barcelona, Spain, to South America, arriving in Buenos Aires, Argentina, on January 7, 1968. On the ship, he recorded in his diary on January 1, 1968, that "adventure is merely a game in my life" and "having a steady job is truly valuable for human existence."
On January 19, 1968, he summitted El Plata (21 K ft (6.50 K m)) in the Andes mountains. He undertook this climb to demonstrate his capabilities after experiencing delays in obtaining military permission for Aconcagua. On February 5, he successfully completed a solo ascent of Aconcagua (23 K ft (6.96 K m)), the highest peak in South America, reaching the summit 15 hours and 15 minutes after leaving a mountain hut at 14 K ft (4.20 K m). On February 15, he made the first ascent of an unnamed peak (19 K ft (5.70 K m)), which he named "Picco de Meiji" in honor of his alma mater, Meiji University.
After passing through Bolivia, Uemura traveled to Lima, Peru, by bus and boat, arriving in Iquitos in April 1968. There, he decided to raft solo down the Amazon River from its source to the mouth, where ships departed for North America. On April 20, he began his journey from Yurimaguas, Peru, on a used balsa wood raft, 13 ft (4 m) long and 8.2 ft (2.5 m) wide, which he purchased for 15 JPY. He named the raft `Ana Maria` after a nun he had met on the ship to South America, with whom he had fallen in love and proposed marriage. He completed the 3.7 K mile (6.00 K km) solo rafting journey, subsisting mainly on bananas, taro, and piranha, arriving in Macapá, Brazil, on June 20. There, he was shocked to learn of the accidental death of his close friend and Meiji University mountaineering club peer, Masanao Kobayashi, who had died in a car accident while en route to a friend's wedding.
After flying from Brazil to the United States, he returned to California to work at a fruit factory for two months to earn money for a Denali expedition. He then traveled to Alaska, but his solo climbing permit for Denali (then Mount McKinley) was denied due to national park regulations requiring climbing parties of at least four people. Instead, on September 14, 1968, he climbed Mount Sanford (16 K ft (4.94 K m)). On October 1, 1968, after four years and five months, Uemura returned to Japan, with his eldest brother Osamu covering his airfare. Uemura was 27 years old.
2.3. Mount Everest and Denali (Mount McKinley) Ascents
Upon returning to Japan, Uemura worked in subway construction and bagging powdered milk. His new dreams included a winter solo ascent of Aconcagua and a motor-powered rubber boat ascent of the Amazon River from mouth to source.
In 1969, Uemura was invited by Hiroshi Otsuka, a senior from the Meiji University mountaineering club, to join the Japanese Alpine Club's Everest expedition, a project commemorating its 65th anniversary. He joined the first reconnaissance team (four members, including one reporter), departing Japan on April 23. In May, they attempted a climb up to the base of the South Face at 21 K ft (6.30 K m). He returned to Japan on June 21. He then participated in the second reconnaissance team (eight members, plus four reporters), departing on August 20. On September 13, they established base camp. On October 31, Uemura, along with Masatsugu Konishi, reached 26 K ft (8.00 K m) on the South Face. After the reconnaissance team withdrew on November 7, Uemura remained in Khumjung, Nepal (12 K ft (3.80 K m)), staying with Pemba Tenzing, the Sherpa who had made the first ascent of Gojunba Kang with him. He spent the winter acclimatizing and high-altitude training for the main expedition, including daily 3.7 mile (6 km) to 4.3 mile (7 km) runs in climbing boots.
In February 1970, Uemura welcomed the main Japanese Alpine Club Everest expedition team (total leader: Saburo Matsukata, climbing leader: Hiroshi Otsuka, 39 members) in Kathmandu. On March 23, they entered base camp. Although Uemura had initially joined as a porter and route-fixer due to his inability to pay the 300.00 K JPY participation fee, his exceptional physical condition led to his selection for the first summit attempt on the Southeast Ridge route with Teruo Matsuura on May 3. On May 11, at 9:10 AM, Uemura and Matsuura successfully summited Mount Everest (29 K ft (8.85 K m)), making them the first Japanese to do so. The team's primary goal of the first ascent of the South Face was abandoned at 26 K ft (8.05 K m).
Uemura later recounted in his autobiography that when he and Matsuura were 33 ft (10 m) from the summit, he allowed Matsuura to step ahead. However, Matsuura testified that they reached the summit simultaneously, arm-in-arm. Upon reaching the top, Uemura told Matsuura that "it would be better to show everyone a stone from the summit than a camera," and then, claiming his hand slipped, he dropped the latest NHK video camera into the Nepalese side of the mountain. The camera was recovered the next day by the second Japanese summit team and safely returned to Japan. Uemura also buried a photo of his deceased Meiji University colleague, Masanao Kobayashi, on the summit. Matsuura likewise buried a photo of Kiyoshi Narita, who had died of a heart attack at Camp 1 during the expedition, along with some of Narita's hair, a charm, and a pack of his favorite "Peace" cigarettes and matches. Upon returning to Japan, Uemura visited Kobayashi's home, knelt before his altar, and tearfully declared, "I climbed Everest for you. I even brought a stone from the summit."
On July 30, 1970, Uemura departed Japan for Alaska, arriving the same day. Leveraging his recent Everest success, he again challenged Denali (then Mount McKinley). Although he still couldn't obtain an official solo permit, the park director, showing goodwill, allowed him to enter as a member of an American team. His body was also still acclimatized to high altitudes from Everest. On August 17, he flew into Kahiltna Glacier by light aircraft. On August 19, he departed base camp (7.0 K ft (2.14 K m)). On August 26, Uemura successfully completed the first solo ascent of Denali. At this point, Uemura, at 29 years old, became the first person in the world to ascend the highest peaks on five continents (Mont Blanc, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Everest, and Denali).
3. Polar Expeditions and Preparation for Antarctic Crossing
Uemura's focus then shifted to the daunting challenges of the polar regions, undertaking groundbreaking solo expeditions that ultimately served as preparation for his long-cherished dream of a solo Antarctic crossing.
3.1. Life with Greenlandic Inuit and Solo Dog Sledding
After his five-continent achievement, Uemura began dreaming of a solo dog sled traverse of Antarctica, with an additional goal of solo ascending Vinson Massif (Antarctica's highest peak). To prepare, he started gathering information on Antarctica.
In December 1970, as training for an upcoming Everest international expedition, Uemura joined Masatsugu Konishi's team to attempt the winter North Face of Grandes Jorasses. During the climb, they were hit by a severe cold wave, the worst in 20-40 years for Europe. Four of the six team members suffered severe frostbite, losing fingers and toes, but Uemura and Yukio Takaku completed the climb on January 1, 1971, reaching Walker Peak (14 K ft (4.21 K m)) unscathed.
In February 1971, Uemura, along with Reizo Ito, joined the International Everest Expedition, organized by the BBC and led by American Norman Dyhrenfurth, aiming for a second Everest summit via the South Face. However, after the tragic death of Indian climber Harsh Bahuguna on April 15, and the surfacing of conflicting interests among the international team members, the expedition "disintegrated." Despite this, Uemura and Ito continued to carry supplies, without oxygen, to Camp 6 at 27 K ft (8.23 K m) for two British climbers pushing for the summit. On May 21, the summit attempt was abandoned at 27 K ft (8.30 K m). After the expedition dissolved, Uemura was the only one who visited Bahuguna's bereaved family. Uemura was 30 years old at the time.
In March 1971, he published his first book, "Betting the Youth on the Mountains." To physically experience the 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) distance of a potential Antarctic crossing, Uemura then undertook a 52-day solo walk across the Japanese archipelago, covering 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) from Cape Sōya in Wakkanai, Hokkaido to Kagoshima Prefecture in Kyushu. He departed Cape Sōya on August 30, walking along the Sea of Japan coast, and arrived at then JNR Nishi-Kagoshima Station (now Kagoshima-Chūō Station) on October 20. He wore out three pairs of shoes and lost 11 lb (5 kg) of weight.
From December 1971, Uemura began reconnaissance for his Antarctic dream. He entered Ushuaia, Argentina, and on January 5, 1972, departed on the icebreaker `San Martín`, arriving at Argentina's General Belgrano Base in Antarctica on January 14. He conducted reconnaissance flights by military helicopter, flying dozens of kilometers inland. He left the base on January 18, visiting several other Argentine Antarctic bases before returning to Ushuaia on February 2. However, the U.S. National Science Foundation, which managed McMurdo Station on the opposite side of the Ross Sea (Uemura's intended starting point for a trans-Antarctic crossing), rejected his request, citing the Antarctic Treaty which did not permit individual expeditions. In February, he attempted to climb the unclimbed South Face of Aconcagua as further training, but had to abandon it due to heavy rockfall, using only packing twine as a makeshift rope due to inadequate equipment.
On April 11, 1972, Uemura departed Japan for Greenland with the goal of learning dog sledding and acclimatizing to polar conditions. In May, he surveyed Ammassalik on Greenland's east coast. On September 11, he began living with the Inuit people in Siorapaluk, Greenland, then 31 years old. He initially lived in an Inuit home, then moved to his own abandoned house. He immersed himself in their daily lives, learning their clothing, food, hunting, fishing, and crucial dog sledding techniques, which he called "life acclimatization." This included hunting polar bears and eating raw meat. He also developed a strong liking for `Kiviak`, a traditional Inuit dish.
On February 4, 1973, Uemura embarked on a solo dog sled journey of 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) in Greenland, from Siorapaluk to Upernavik and back, a distance equivalent to the shortest route from the Ross Sea to the Weddell Sea via the South Pole. He successfully completed this journey on April 30. He departed Siorapaluk on June 26 and returned to Japan in July.
3.2. North Pole Arrival and Greenland Traverse
Around this time, Uemura met Kimiko Nozaki near his home in Itabashi, Tokyo. He had met her at his favorite tonkatsu restaurant and, upon meeting her, presented her with his first book, "Betting the Youth on the Mountains," signed "To Kimiko Nozaki, Thank you for your kindness." On March 6, 1974, Uemura, accompanied by his eldest brother Osamu and third brother Takeo, visited the Nozaki family for the `yuinō` (engagement ceremony).
From March 8, 1974, Uemura served as the leader of the Meiji University Mountaineering Club OB organization "Robatakai"'s Himalaya expedition reconnaissance team, scouting Dhaulagiri V in Nepal. He returned to Japan on May 12. On May 18, at the age of 33, he married Kimiko Nozaki. The `nakōdo` (matchmakers) were Hiroshi Otsuka and his wife. Although Uemura initially resisted having a wedding ceremony and honeymoon due to his modest nature and financial constraints, his climbing friends arranged for a ceremony at Hikawa Shrine in Itabashi and a reception at Akasaka Prince Hotel, followed by a honeymoon in Minakami Onsen.
Uemura planned a dog sled trip around Greenland but was told by a potential sponsor that its "exploratory value was weak," leading him to abandon the plan. Instead, on November 22, 1974, he departed Japan for Greenland, arriving in Jakobshavn on December 11. On December 29, he embarked on a 7.5 K mile (12.00 K km) solo dog sled journey through the Arctic Circle from Keketak, a village in western Greenland, aiming for Kotzebue, Alaska. He arrived in Cambridge Bay, Canada, on June 12, 1975, and summered in Anderson Bay. He resumed his journey on December 15, reaching Kotzebue, Alaska, on May 8, 1976. This was a long journey of one and a half years, with 313 actual sledding days excluding the summering period. Only one dog, Anna (meaning "woman" in Eskimo), completed the entire 7.5 K mile (12.00 K km) journey with him. Uemura was 35.
After this, he dreamed of a circum-Arctic dog sled journey from the Bering Strait, along the Siberian Arctic coast, to Europe, but abandoned it due to the difficulty of obtaining permission from the Soviet Union. On July 31, 1976, he summited Mount Elbrus (19 K ft (5.64 K m)) in the Soviet Union.
On March 21, 1977, Uemura visited Resolute, Canada, for 20 days to scout for a solo dog sled journey to the North Pole, revisiting it for seven days in September. The necessary funds for this North Pole and Greenland solo dog sled expedition could not be met by the initial three sponsors (Bungeishunju, Mainichi Shimbun, Mainichi Broadcasting System) alone, so an advertising agency (`Dentsu`) became involved, and a nationwide "One Thousand Yen Donation Campaign" was launched. The response was significant, making Uemura's name and adventures widely known across Japan.
On January 30, 1978, Uemura departed Japan to attempt the world's first solo dog sled journey to the North Pole. He hoped that reaching the North Pole would validate his capabilities as a polar explorer and pave the way for his Antarctic ambitions. On February 22, he arrived in Alert, Ellesmere Island, Canada. On March 5, he departed from Cape Columbia, Canada (North 83 degrees 06 minutes, West 71 degrees 02 minutes) with 17 dogs, including a sled named `Aurora`. After a solo dog sled journey of approximately 497 mile (800 km), he successfully reached the North Pole on April 29. During this 57-day push, he wrote, "What drove me to continue then was the thought of countless people who had helped and supported me and the knowledge that I could never face them if I gave up." On the fourth day, a polar bear invaded his camp, ate his supplies, and poked its nose into his sleeping bag. When it returned the next day, Uemura shot it dead. On the 35th day, his ice floe cracked, leaving him and his malamutes stranded. After a night of terror, he found a 3 ft-wide ice bridge and raced to safety. He received four supply drops by Twin Otter aircraft and relied on a support team for radio communication and satellite tracking (using NASA's Nimbus 6 satellite), which confirmed his position, temperature, and atmospheric pressure at the North Pole. This extensive support, and the concurrent expedition by the Nihon University North Pole expedition team (who reached the Pole a day earlier on April 28), led to some criticism, with some calling it an "adventure floating a boat in a tub." However, Uemura's achievement led him to be the first Japanese to be featured on the cover of `National Geographic` (September 1978 issue). Uemura was 37 years old.
The same year, Uemura also successfully completed a solo dog sled traverse of Greenland. He undertook this traverse because its inland ice sheet closely resembled the ice cap of Antarctica. The distance covered was 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km). He departed Cape Morris Jesup on May 12, passed through the highest point of the inland ice sheet (11 K ft (3.24 K m)) on July 12, and arrived at Nunatak, southern Greenland (North 61 degrees 39 minutes, West 44 degrees 15 minutes), on August 22. This location, about 56 mile (90 km) from Narsarsuaq, was chosen as the end point due to the danger of hidden crevasses further south. In this traverse, Uemura successfully used a sail on his sled, like a yacht, to reduce the dogs' burden. This idea, conceived by Uemura, was realized after consulting Noriko Kobayashi, who had completed a solo non-stop yacht race across the Pacific in 1975. The mast was 20 ft (6 m) high.
On August 30, a "triumphant" press conference was held at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington D.C., orchestrated by `Dentsu` to promote "Uemura of the World." After returning to Japan, from October to March of the following year, Uemura undertook numerous lectures (earning 500.00 K JPY per lecture) and event appearances (300.00 K JPY per autograph session) nationwide to cover a deficit of approximately 70.00 M JPY out of the 200.00 M JPY spent on his North Pole and Greenland adventures.
On October 9, 1978, Uemura was awarded the 26th Kikuchi Kan Prize for his "two great adventures: the solo dog sled journey to the North Pole and the traverse of Greenland... which raised the achievements of Japanese youth both domestically and internationally." On February 22, 1979, he received the "Valor in Sports Award" from the Victoria Sports Club in the United Kingdom, recognizing his "uncommon courage displayed in solo acts in the desolate Arctic" and his role as a "pioneer of lonely paths." The award ceremony, held at Guildhall, saw him crowned with a golden laurel wreath worth 55.00 K GBP (22.00 M JPY). His wife, Kimiko, wearing a kimono, accompanied him for photographs. Uemura was 38.
3.3. Frustration of Antarctic Crossing Plans
On June 6, 1979, Uemura was invited by the Chinese government to Lhasa, Tibet. In August, the U.S. National Science Foundation gave a final denial to Uemura's Antarctic plans, stating the U.S. could not cooperate.
In December, Uemura spent about a month scouting for a winter Everest ascent in Kala Patthar (18 K ft (5.40 K m)) in Nepal. In 1980, he planned a winter ascent of Everest but considered a solo ascent too difficult. He formed the "Japanese Winter Everest Team," primarily composed of Meiji University mountaineering club OBs, with himself as leader. However, on February 18, 1980, a Polish team made the first winter ascent of Everest, preempting Uemura's goal. (Uemura later disputed this, arguing that winter officially refers to December and January, so the Polish team's ascent in February did not count as a true winter ascent.)
From late April for about three weeks, Uemura stayed in Nepal to prepare for the winter Everest expedition, booking Sherpas and gathering information and equipment from the "successful" Polish team. As training, Uemura then challenged a winter ascent of Aconcagua. On July 11, 1980, he departed Japan with a team of eight. On August 5, they entered base camp. On August 13, Uemura, along with Kenichi Matsuda and Etsuo Akutsu, completed the second winter ascent of Aconcagua. However, they abandoned their planned bivouac training on the summit. Uemura was 39.
On October 30, 1980, Uemura departed Japan for his winter Everest attempt. With the Polish team having claimed the first winter ascent, Uemura's expedition took on an academic character in addition to climbing. The team consisted of six climbers (including Uemura, Masashi Doi, Toyozo Sugasawa, Noboru Takena, Kenichi Matsuda, and Toichiro Mitani), five academics (one geologist, two glaciologists, two high-altitude medical specialists), and six reporters. This team was also influenced by Meiji University Mountaineering Club's decision to launch an Everest expedition in spring 1981 as part of the university's 100th-anniversary celebration. On December 1, they began their ascent from base camp. However, on January 12, 1981, climber Noboru Takena died at 23 K ft (7.10 K m). Although Japanese media reported it as a "fall," Uemura, who witnessed it, stated Takena slipped less than 16 ft (5 m). The cause of death remained unclear as his body was frozen when brought down to base camp. The team was also hampered by severe weather, including strong winds that prevented the establishment of Camp 4. On January 27, they abandoned the summit attempt, returning to Japan on February 14. Uemura was 40.
In 1981, Uemura received cooperation from the Argentine military for his planned 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) solo dog sled journey in Antarctica and a solo ascent of Vinson Massif. However, since cooperation from the United States was not granted, a full trans-Antarctic crossing became impossible, and the plan shifted to a 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) round trip to Vinson Massif.
In December, Uemura visited Argentina for TV and magazine coverage, staying at the Marambio Base in Antarctica for seven days. On January 24, 1982, he departed Japan to attempt the Antarctic 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) solo dog sled journey and Vinson Massif solo ascent. On February 10, he sailed from Ushuaia, Argentina's southernmost port, on the icebreaker `Irízar`, arriving at the Argentine military's San Martín Base on the Antarctic Peninsula on February 13. He waited there for his departure, but on March 19, the Falklands War broke out. On December 22, the military withdrew its cooperation. Although the Falklands War ended on June 14, 1982, the change in Argentine military leadership (who had been cooperative with Uemura) due to war accountability likely impacted his plans. Officially, the reason given was unstable Antarctic weather and the high risk associated with aircraft landings and takeoffs for supply. Uemura's Antarctic dream was again thwarted. He returned to Japan on March 16, 1983, after spending about a year in Antarctica. Uemura was 42.
4. Winter Solo Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley) and Disappearance
The final chapter of Naomi Uemura's life was marked by his perilous solo winter ascent of Denali and his subsequent, tragic disappearance, leaving behind a legacy of unparalleled adventurous spirit and an enduring mystery.
4.1. Preparation and Ascent Process
After two "failures" (the thwarted Everest winter attempt and the canceled Antarctic crossing), Uemura spoke of returning to his "origin" and expressed his ambition to establish an outdoor school after completing the Antarctic traverse. In August 1983, he scouted Obihiro, Hokkaido, as a suitable location for his proposed outdoor school.
On October 20, 1983, Uemura departed Japan. He kept his travel plans private, only informing his wife, Kimiko, and Masashi Doi, a senior from Meiji University Mountaineering Club. He did not even inform his family in his hometown that he was going to America. On October 24, he participated in the `Outward Bound School` (OBS) in Minnesota, as a semi-instructor (unpaid) due to his fame, though he had wished to join as a student. He departed Minnesota on January 16, 1984.
On January 18, 1984, Uemura met with employees of the American company DuPont in Chicago, likely to discuss support for his Antarctic plans, which involved aerial supply drops by civilian C-130 transport aircraft. He then traveled to Alaska. On January 21, he arrived in Anchorage, and on January 24, he entered Talkeetna, staying at a lodge called "Latitude 62."
On January 26, Uemura landed on Denali's Kahiltna Glacier via a small aircraft. On February 1, he began his ascent from base camp (7.2 K ft (2.20 K m)). A select group of reporters from TV Asahi, including director Akiharu Otani (a Waseda University mountaineering club OB and the first to summit K2 via the West Ridge), a cameraman, and an assistant, covered his expedition. Uemura had developed a unique "self-rescue" device for crevasse falls, consisting of bamboo poles tied across his shoulders, designed to span any crevasse he might fall into and allow him to pull himself out. He planned a very light run, carrying only a 40 lb (40 lb) pack plus a sled. He intended to sleep in snow caves to avoid carrying a tent, and also skimped on fuel, planning to eat cold food to minimize weight.
4.2. Summit Arrival and Disappearance
On February 12, 1984, at 6:50 PM, Naomi Uemura achieved the world's first solo winter ascent of Denali. This day was also his 43rd birthday. He later reported to the TV Asahi charter plane on February 13 that he had reached the South Peak summit the previous night at 6:50 PM. He said he began his descent around 10:00 PM but had difficulty finding the route and had to bivouac.
However, contact was lost after a radio communication at 11:00 AM on February 13 with the TV Asahi charter plane. During this last communication, Uemura stated his current position was 20.00 K ft. This "20,000 feet" became his last recorded words. It is speculated that he might have intended to say 19.00 K ft but switched to "20,000 feet" due to poor radio conditions. Visibility was poor, and his figure could not be confirmed visually. At the time of his disappearance, high winds were reported near the summit, and temperatures were around -50 °F.
4.3. Search Efforts and Last Records
On February 15, a light aircraft on a pickup mission discovered bamboo poles Uemura had used to prevent crevasse falls at 9.5 K ft (2.90 K m) on the glacier. However, Uemura was not found at base camp or along the climbing route. On February 16, the pilot of a light aircraft reported seeing a person resembling Uemura waving from a snow cave at 16 K ft (4.90 K m). Although the aircraft circled multiple times for confirmation, the person was lost from sight due to poor weather and visibility. The Denali National Park Service launched an extensive search operation with two light aircraft and one helicopter capable of flying up to 16 K ft (5.00 K m).
On February 20, two climbers participating in the search, Akiharu Otani (TV Asahi director) and James Wickwire (American climber and friend of Uemura's), discovered Uemura's diary (entries from February 1 to February 6), camera, and film in a snow cave at 14 K ft (4.20 K m). The last entry in his diary, dated February 6, read, "I wish I could sleep in a warm sleeping bag. No matter what happens I am going to climb McKinley." On February 25, Uemura's belongings were found in a snow cave at 16 K ft (4.90 K m) (the location where the waving figure was reportedly sighted), but Uemura himself was not found. However, subsequent searches and analysis of the route suggested that Uemura might not have returned to the 17 K ft (5.20 K m) snow cave, where a significant amount of his gear was later found, as that cave was not easily missed on the route.
Uemura had also left his self-rescue poles at 9.50 K ft, knowing he was past the worst crevasse fields. It was widely believed that he had fallen during his descent of the headwall, was injured or died, and was subsequently buried by snow. Another theory suggested he might have fallen into one of the many crevasses at 14.20 K ft, at the base of the headwall.
On February 26, the Denali National Park Service officially called off the search, stating that Uemura's survival was "100% unlikely." Subsequently, the Meiji University Mountaineering Club OB organization, "Robatakai," launched its own search operation. The first search team, led by Kiyoshi Hashimoto, found Uemura's remaining equipment in a snow cave at 17 K ft (5.20 K m) on March 6. However, they were unable to search the area from 17 K ft (5.20 K m) to the summit. The Robatakai search was also called off on March 8.
The last day Uemura was able to communicate, February 13, is generally considered his date of presumed death. In late April to May, a second search by the Robatakai team, led by Ken Hiroe, focused on the area from 17 K ft (5.20 K m) to the summit. They recovered the Japanese flag Uemura had placed on the summit (later confirmed by his wife, Kimiko, who had sent him the flag) and a piece of the American flag, but Uemura was not found. High-definition aerial photographs were taken, but no trace of Uemura was seen.
Following the news of Uemura's disappearance, numerous donations were sent to the Meiji University Mountaineering Club OB "Robatakai" for search expenses. In response, the "Naomi Uemura Association" was established on March 1, 1984, with Meiji University's athletic department serving as the reception desk. By December 25, 1984, 29.50 M JPY had been collected from 3,116 donations. In December 1984, an Alaskan State Court officially declared Naomi Uemura dead. His death certificate was officially registered at the Itabashi Ward Office in January 1985, based on the Alaskan court's ruling. In May 2011, a park ranger reported discovering a body on Denali, prompting a search, but it was not found.
5. Personality and Adventure Philosophy
Naomi Uemura's approach to adventure was deeply intertwined with his quiet personality and a distinctive philosophy that emphasized self-reliance, respect for indigenous cultures, and a pragmatic yet profound understanding of risk.
5.1. Personal Characteristics
Despite his monumental achievements, Uemura was inherently shy, modest, and unassuming. He harbored a constant sense of inferiority, believing he had no particular strengths beyond his physical endurance. This self-perception fueled his relentless effort, turning his perceived weaknesses into a driving force for his success. He was particularly uncomfortable with public praise and media attention, often disliking being "lifted up" in press conferences. His pure-heartedness and emotional sensitivity were evident, as seen when he wept openly at his friend Kobayashi's altar after climbing Everest for him.
Uemura was a deeply empathetic individual who genuinely cared about others, as noted by author Jonathan Waterman, who stated that "as remarkable as his solo achievements were his sincere modesty and unassuming nature. Another part of his greatness lay in his deep interest in everyone he met." This contrasts with the bold and fearless image often presented by the media. His former climbing leader, Susumu Takahashi, described Uemura as someone who would fearlessly undertake reckless journeys like penniless travel across the world, yet was exceptionally timid and pure-hearted, becoming speechless when admonished by seniors.
In his high school days, Uemura was a quiet and unremarkable student, with few classmates remembering him clearly. In his early university mountaineering days, his clumsiness earned him the nickname "Donguri" (acorn), and he was initially ridiculed. However, his secret, persistent training allowed him to eventually catch up with his peers, becoming a sub-leader by his fourth year. While he had a desire to be at the forefront of climbing expeditions, he often preferred to support his team members from the background. He was not a natural public speaker and would need time to compose himself before addressing large audiences during fundraising lectures or press conferences. However, his unpretentious narratives, drawn from his direct experiences, deeply moved many.
5.2. Adventure Style and Principles
Uemura's adventure style was characterized by a strong inclination towards solo expeditions. He believed that embarking on a path already tread by others was not true adventure. His unique approach to exploration emphasized "life acclimatization," wherein he would live with local communities in the areas he planned to explore, integrating into their daily lives and learning essential survival skills directly from them.
A prime example of this was his five-month immersion with the Inuit in Siorapaluk, Greenland, prior to his dog sled journeys. During this time, he learned their customs, hunting techniques, and essential dog sledding skills, which proved invaluable in his polar expeditions. This "life acclimatization" also meant embracing the local diet, including `Kiviak`, a fermented bird dish known for its strong odor, which Uemura reportedly loved. This firsthand knowledge allowed him to adapt to extreme environments and mitigate risks effectively, such as using polar bear meat for protein after being attacked.
In his winter mountain expeditions, Uemura employed innovative self-rescue techniques. After a near-fatal crevasse fall on Mont Blanc in 1964, where his crampons and luggage snagged, he developed a method of strapping several bamboo poles to his body to prevent deep falls into crevasses. This technique was observed in his final Denali ascent, where he used bamboo poles for climbing and crevasse safety, although he later discarded them after passing the most dangerous crevasse fields. His meticulous planning and preparation, rather than sheer recklessness, underpinned his seemingly audacious feats.
A core principle of Uemura's philosophy was that "returning alive is the absolute premise of adventure." He often emphasized this point, stating that dying during an adventure was unacceptable. This belief highlighted his deep sense of responsibility and his pragmatic approach to risk management, even as he pushed the boundaries of human endurance.
6. Legacy and Evaluation
Naomi Uemura's unparalleled achievements and tragic disappearance left an indelible mark on adventure, inspiring generations and solidifying his status as a legendary figure whose contributions are recognized through various honors and commemorative activities.
6.1. Posthumous Awards and Honors
Following his disappearance on Denali, Naomi Uemura received numerous posthumous recognitions for his extraordinary contributions to exploration and adventure. On April 19, 1984, he was awarded the People's Honor Award by the Japanese government. The commendation recognized his achievement of being the first to summit the highest peaks on five continents, as well as his solo dog sled journeys to the North Pole and across Greenland, all of which provided dreams and courage to many Japanese, especially the youth.
On June 11, 1984, his alma mater, Meiji University, bestowed upon him an honorary doctorate degree. The Valor in Sports Award from the Victoria Sports Club in the United Kingdom, which he had received on February 22, 1979, had already acknowledged his unique courage and pioneering spirit in the Arctic, contrasting him as a "discoverer of lonely paths."
The Naomi Uemura Prize was established in Japan after his death to honor outstanding adventurers, ensuring that his legacy of challenge and exploration continues to inspire others.
6.2. Memorial Facilities and Commemorative Activities
Uemura's memory is preserved through several dedicated facilities and ongoing activities. On June 16, 1984, a "Farewell Party for Naomi Uemura" was held at the Aoyama Funeral Hall in Tokyo. The altar featured a smiling photograph of Uemura, along with the Japanese flag recovered from the Denali summit and his beloved pickaxe. The only offering accepted was from the Prince Hitachi family, whom Uemura had accompanied on climbs up Mount Fuji and Hotaka. On the same day, the Danish government announced that Nunatak Peak (8.3 K ft (2.54 K m)), the highest point of Uemura's 1978 Greenland traverse (located at North 61 degrees 39 minutes, West 44 degrees 15 minutes), would be renamed "Nunatak Uemura Peak" to commemorate his historic achievement as the first person to traverse Greenland. An eight-member Japanese team, including Akiharu Otani (who had covered Uemura's last climb) and Mikihisa Ando (a photographer for Bungeishunju), made the first ascent of Nunatak Uemura in June 1996.

In August 1984, he was made an honorary citizen of his hometown, Hidaka Town (now Toyooka City), the first person to receive this honor. On September 20, a relief plaque commemorating Uemura's achievements was unveiled near Narsarsuaq, Greenland, the endpoint of his 1978 traverse. Due to her health, Uemura's wife, Kimiko, could not attend, so his eldest brother, Osamu Uemura, attended in her place.
In August 1985, an outdoor school conceptualized by Uemura was opened by volunteers in Obihiro, Hokkaido, named the "Naomi Uemura Obihiro Outdoor School," with his wife, Kimiko, serving as honorary principal. In 1992, the `Uemura Memorial Foundation` was established in Itabashi, Tokyo, by the Itabashi Ward, opening the `Uemura Adventure Museum`. This museum is located in the area where Uemura lived for approximately 15 years until his disappearance on Denali, including nearly ten years with his wife. On April 10, 1994, the `Naomi Uemura Adventure Museum` was opened in his hometown of Hidaka Town (now Toyooka City), Hyōgo Prefecture. In 1996, the `Naomi Uemura Adventure Award` was established by Toyooka City.

His tombstone is located at Raikōji Temple in Toyooka City, the Uemura family temple. This tombstone, erected in October 1986 by his eldest brother Osamu Uemura, bears the inscription "Grave of Naomi Uemura" penned by Eizaburo Nishibori. On the reverse, it includes Uemura's posthumous Buddhist name, `Kenkon-in Jikishin Futō Koji`, and the date of his presumed death, February 16, 1984. A sub-monument also carries the words "A BRAVE MAN AND GREAT ADVENTURER" from Sir Edmund Hillary. Another tombstone was erected at Jōrenji Temple in Itabashi Ward, Tokyo, on June 1, 1985, to coincide with the first anniversary of his presumed death. The memorial poem on this monument was written by Shimpei Kusano, and the posthumous Buddhist name, `Kenkon-in Jikinyobi Shin Futō Koji`, is in his wife Kimiko's handwriting.
6.3. Public Perception and Influence
Uemura's image as an adventurous icon has endured in Japan and globally. His humble personality, combined with his incredible feats, resonated deeply with the public. His adventures, often undertaken solo, symbolized an indomitable spirit of challenge and self-reliance. He inspired countless individuals, especially youth, to pursue their dreams and face challenges head-on. His adventure books for children were particularly popular in Japan, further cementing his influence. His legacy continues to be celebrated through various media and educational initiatives, keeping his spirit of exploration alive.
6.4. Reactions to His Tragic Death
The news of Uemura's disappearance was met with profound sadness and shock, especially given his often-stated philosophy that "returning alive is the absolute premise of adventure." On March 9, 1984, after the search was called off, his wife, Kimiko, held a press conference at Meiji University, accompanied by his former climbing leader Hiroshi Otsuka and other university colleagues. When a reporter asked what she would say to him if he were alive, Kimiko, tearfully yet composed, replied, "He always grandiosely said that 'adventure is about coming back alive,' so I want to tell him, 'Isn't this a bit sloppy?'" She further revealed, "I opposed all his journeys. But he always said, 'This is all I have.' And he would leave even if I opposed him."
The diary discovered in the snow cave at 14 K ft (4.20 K m), with its last entry on February 6, stated, "No matter what happens, I am going to climb McKinley." Japanese mountaineer Ken Noguchi interpreted Uemura's use of "no matter what happens" as an unprofessional phrase for an experienced adventurer, implying a commitment to proceed "under any circumstances." Noguchi questioned why Uemura, who understood the dangers of nature, would use such words. Uemura's disappearance thus became a poignant reminder of the inherent risks of pushing human limits, even for the most prepared and experienced.
7. Writings and Media
Naomi Uemura was not only a renowned adventurer but also a prolific writer and the subject of numerous media portrayals that captured his life and extraordinary expeditions.
7.1. Major Works Authored by Uemura
Uemura authored several significant books, chronicling his adventures and reflecting on his experiences. These works provided deep insights into his unique philosophy and the challenges he faced:
- `青春を山に賭けて` (青春を山に賭けてSeishun o Yama ni KaketeJapanese, "Betting the Youth on the Mountains"). Published by Mainichi Shimbunsha in March 1971. This book covers his life from birth to the completion of the Grandes Jorasses in January 1971, though with limited detail on his early childhood. It was later reissued by Bungeishunju as a paperback in 1977 and a new edition in 2008.
- `極北に駆ける` (極北に駆けるKyokuhoku ni KakeruJapanese, "Running to the Far North"). Published by Bungeishunjū in July 1974. This work delves into his polar experiences. It was later reissued as a paperback by Bungeishunju in 1977 and a new edition in 2011.
- `北極圏一万二千キロ` (北極圏一万二千キロHokkyokuken Ichiman Nisen KiroJapanese, "12,000 Kilometers Above the Arctic Circle"). Published by Bungeishunju in September 1976. This book details his epic dog sled journey. It was later reissued as a paperback by Bungeishunju in 1979.
- `北極点グリーンランド単独行` (北極点グリーンランド単独行Hokkyokuten Greenland TandokukōJapanese, "Solo Trip to the North Pole and Greenland"). Published by Bungeishunju in October 1978. This work focuses on his groundbreaking solo journeys in the polar regions. It was later reissued as a paperback by Bungeishunju in 1982.
- `冒険` (冒険BōkenJapanese, "Adventures"). Published by Mainichi Shimbunsha in December 1980. This book explores various facets of his adventurous life. It was later reissued by Obunsha as a paperback in 1984 and by Shogakukan as a paperback in 1998.
- `男にとって冒険とは何か:植村直己 対談・エッセイ集` (男にとって冒険とは何か:植村直己 対談・エッセイ集Otoko ni Totte Bōken to wa Nani ka: Uemura Naomi Taidan, EsseyshūJapanese, "What is Adventure to a Man: Naomi Uemura Interviews and Essays Collection"). Published by Ushio Shuppansha in January 1981. This collection includes interviews with various prominent figures and essays by Uemura. It was later reissued as a paperback by Ushio Shuppansha in 1984.
- `エベレストを越えて` (エベレストを越えてEverest o KoeteJapanese, "Beyond Everest"). Published by Bungeishunju in July 1982. This book covers his experiences on Mount Everest. It was later reissued as a paperback by Bungeishunju in 1984.
- `植村直己の冒険学校` (植村直己の冒険学校Uemura Naomi no Bōken GakkōJapanese, "Naomi Uemura's Adventure School"). Published by Bungeishunju in August 1986. This work is a compilation of Uemura's recorded conversations from 1983. It was later reissued as a visual paperback by Bungeishunju in 1994.
- `植村直己と山で一泊:登山靴を脱いだ冒険家、最後の世間話` (植村直己と山で一泊:登山靴を脱いだ冒険家、最後の世間話Uemura Naomi to Yama de Ippaku: Tozangutsu o Nuida Bōkenka, Saigo no Seiken BanashiJapanese, "One Night in the Mountains with Naomi Uemura: The Adventurer Who Took Off His Climbing Boots, His Last Chat"). Published by Shogakukan in August 1993. This book is a transcription of an interview with Uemura from a 1983 camping trip. It was later reissued as a paperback by Shogakukan in 1999.
- `植村直己 妻への手紙` (植村直己 妻への手紙Uemura Naomi Tsuma e no TegamiJapanese, "Naomi Uemura: Letters to His Wife"). Published by Bungeishunju Shinsho in October 2002. This is a collection of letters written by Uemura to his wife, Kimiko.
- `植村直己、挑戦を語る` (植村直己、挑戦を語るUemura Naomi, Chōsen o KataruJapanese, "Naomi Uemura, Speaking of Challenge"). Published by Bungeishunju Shinsho in July 2004. This collection compiles Uemura's various discussions and round-table talks.
7.2. Related Books and Publications
Numerous books and publications have been written about Naomi Uemura, offering diverse perspectives on his life, achievements, and impact:
- `登頂ゴジュンバ・カン:明治大学ヒマラヤ登山隊の記録` ("Summit of Gojunba Kang: Record of Meiji University Himalaya Expedition") edited by Susumu Takahashi, 1967.
- `エベレストへの道` ("The Road to Everest") by Toshio Naito (NHK Overseas Coverage Team leader), 1971.
- `グランドジョラス北壁:ウオーカー稜冬期日本人初登攀` ("Grandes Jorasses North Face: First Japanese Winter Ascent of Walker Spur") by Masatsugu Konishi, 1971 (includes Uemura's commentary in its paperback edition).
- `探検と冒険 4:朝日講座` ("Exploration and Adventure 4: Asahi Lecture") edited by Asahi Shimbunsha, 1972 (includes Uemura's "Solo Rafting Down the Amazon: 60 Days Battling the Great River").
- `エベレスト南壁:1971国際隊の悲劇` ("Everest South Face: Tragedy of the 1971 International Expedition") by Peter Steele, translated by Setsuo Tanabe, 1972.
- `わが北壁の記:星野隆男追悼集` ("My North Face Record: Ryokō Hoshino Memorial Collection") edited by Ryokō Hoshino Memorial Collection Editorial Department, 1976 (includes Uemura's memorial text).
- `北極点をめざす野郎たち` ("Guys Aiming for the North Pole") edited by Yomiuri Shimbun Social Affairs Department, 1978.
- `極地に燃ゆ:にんげん植村直己` ("Burning in the Polar Regions: Naomi Uemura, the Human") by Hirofumi Aizawa and Teruo Matsumoto, 1979.
- `植村直己 冒険の軌跡:どんぐり地球を駆ける` ("Naomi Uemura's Trajectory of Adventure: The Acorn Runs Around the World") by Yamakei, 1979 (expanded edition in 1984 includes details of his disappearance).
- `男、冒険、人生。` ("Man, Adventure, Life.") by Yuichiro Miura, 1982 (includes an interview with Uemura).
- `わがエベレスト:加藤保男写真集` ("My Everest: Yasuo Kato Photo Collection") edited by Yomiuri Shimbunsha, 1984 (includes Uemura's memorial text for Kato, "Report of Summit and Accident Heard in Antarctica").
- `冒険王・植村直己:緊急出版` ("Adventure King Naomi Uemura: Emergency Publication") by Ryuseisha, 1984.
- `遥かなるマッキンリー:植村直己の愛と冒険` ("Distant McKinley: Naomi Uemura's Love and Adventure") by Yoshikazu Nakajima, 1984.
- `植村直己の冒険を考える` ("Considering Naomi Uemura's Adventure") by Katsuichi Honda and Fumio Takeda, 1984.
- `極北に消ゆ:植村直己捜索報告・追悼集` ("Disappeared in the Far North: Naomi Uemura Search Report and Memorial Collection") edited by Meiji University Mountaineering Club Robatakai, 1985.
- `マッキンリーに死す:植村直己の栄光と修羅` ("Death on McKinley: Naomi Uemura's Glory and Trials") by Saburo Nagao, 1986 (winner of the 8th Kodansha Non-Fiction Award).
- `植村直己の世界` ("The World of Naomi Uemura") edited by Bungeishunju, 1986 (includes wife Kimiko's memoir "I Saw McKinley" and a discussion with director Junya Sato and actors Toshiyuki Nishida and Chieko Baisho from the film "Naomi Uemura Monogatari").
- `現代の冒険 上:山・極地・河` ("Modern Adventure Vol. 1: Mountains, Poles, Rivers") by Chris Bonington, translated by Jiro Taguchi and Teruko Nakamura, 1987 (includes "Solo to the North Pole: Naomi Uemura's Dream").
- `小西政継 ボクのザイル仲間たち` ("Masatsugu Konishi: My Rope Mates") by Masatsugu Konishi, 1987 (includes a chapter on Uemura).
- `エスキモーになった日本人` ("The Japanese Who Became an Eskimo") by Ikuo Ōshima, 1989.
- `植村直己記念館:HOMAGE TO NAOMI UEMURA` ("Naomi Uemura Memorial Museum: Homage to Naomi Uemura") edited by Bungeishunju, 1991.
- `弟・植村直己` ("My Younger Brother, Naomi Uemura") by Osamu Uemura, 1999.
- `残された山靴:志なかばで逝った8人の登山家の最期:佐瀬稔遺稿集` ("The Remaining Mountain Boots: The End of 8 Climbers Who Died Mid-Journey: Minoru Sase's Posthumous Collection") by Minoru Sase, 1999.
- `植村直己・夢・冒険・ロマン:没後20年記念特集` ("Naomi Uemura: Dream, Adventure, Romance: 20th Anniversary of Death Special Feature") by Kawade Shobō Shinsha, 2004.
- `Coyote(コヨーテ)〈No.37:2009年7月号 / 特集:「いざ、南極へ:植村直己が向った旅の先」〉` ("Coyote No. 37: July 2009 / Special Feature: 'To Antarctica: The Path Naomi Uemura Took'") by Switch Publishing, 2009 (includes nearly full text of Uemura's "Antarctic Reconnaissance Diary").
- `植村直己・夢の軌跡` ("Naomi Uemura: Trajectory of a Dream") by Yutaka Yukawa, 2014.
7.3. Films and Television Programs
Naomi Uemura's life and adventures have been extensively documented and dramatized in films and television:
- `ドキュメンタリー青春・わが名はアニマル` ("Documentary Youth: My Name is Animal"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1970.
- `全記録! 植村直己 北極点に立つ` ("Full Record! Naomi Uemura Stands at the North Pole"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1978.
- `植村直己 北極点を越えて4000キロ:孤独の165日` ("Naomi Uemura: Beyond the North Pole 4000 km: 165 Days of Solitude"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1978 (awarded at the Arts Festival).
- `植村直己 チベットを行く` ("Naomi Uemura Goes to Tibet"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1979.
- `エベレストへの序奏:植村直己 冒険の軌跡` ("Prelude to Everest: Naomi Uemura's Trajectory of Adventure"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1980.
- `アンデスの白い恐怖:植村直己 6960mアコンカグアに立つ` ("White Terror of the Andes: Naomi Uemura Stands on Aconcagua 6960m"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1980.
- `遥かなり・厳冬のエベレスト:植村直己 壮絶の58日` ("Far Away, Harsh Winter Everest: Naomi Uemura's Epic 58 Days"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1981.
- `植村直己 南極に挑む:夢大陸ひとりぼっち` ("Naomi Uemura Challenges Antarctica: Solo on the Dream Continent"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1982.
- `南極・夢大陸370日:植村直己の越冬日記` ("Antarctica: Dream Continent 370 Days: Naomi Uemura's Wintering Diary"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1983.
- `男のロマン果てしなく:植村直己 極限との闘い` ("Man's Romance Endless: Naomi Uemura's Struggle with the Extreme"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1983.
- `うちのダンツク 植村直己:公子夫人の亭主談義` ("Our Dan-tsuku: Naomi Uemura: Mrs. Kimiko's Husband Talk"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1984.
- `この笑顔よ永遠に:植村直己 氷雪に消ゆ` ("This Smile Forever: Naomi Uemura Disappears in Ice and Snow"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1984.
- `植村直己特番・夢叶い夢破れ:植村直己の全探検記録` ("Naomi Uemura Special: Dream Fulfilled, Dream Broken: Complete Expedition Record of Naomi Uemura"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1984.
- `偉大なる冒険家・植村直己に捧げる:1984年2月20日 マッキンリー快晴無風、さようならナオミ` ("Dedicated to the Great Adventurer Naomi Uemura: February 20, 1984, McKinley Clear and Windless, Goodbye Naomi"), TV Asahi, 1984.
- `映像80:素顔の植村直己:すぐ帰ってくるからね` ("Eizō 80: The Real Naomi Uemura: I'll Be Right Back"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1984 (awarded at the Arts Festival).
- `大いなる足跡:植村直己 ドキュメンタリーアゲイン` ("Great Footsteps: Naomi Uemura Documentary Again"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1986 (5-night series).
- `MBSナウ:アラスカ大紀行:冒険王・植村直己の足跡を追う` ("MBS Now: Great Alaska Journey: Tracing the Footsteps of Adventure King Naomi Uemura"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 1994.
- `スペースJ:生きる:冒険王・植村直己 遭難から10年` ("Space J: Live: Adventure King Naomi Uemura: 10 Years Since Disappearance"), Mainichi Broadcasting System/TBS, 1994.
- `驚きももの木20世紀:植村直己・悲劇の山の謎` ("Surprising Peach Tree 20th Century: Naomi Uemura - Mystery of the Tragic Mountain"), Asahi Broadcasting Corporation, 1996.
- `冒険王 植村直己・夢叶い、夢破れ:極限に挑み続けた男の全行動記録` ("Adventure King Naomi Uemura: Dream Fulfilled, Dream Broken: Complete Record of a Man Who Kept Challenging Extremes"), Mainichi Broadcasting System, 2004.
- `ラストメッセージ第四集:夢果てしなく 冒険家植村直己` ("Last Message Vol. 4: Endless Dream Adventurer Naomi Uemura"), NHK General TV, 2007.
- `日立 世界・ふしぎ発見!:アラスカ・マッキンリーに消えた冒険家 植村直己` ("Hitachi World's Wonders: Naomi Uemura, the Adventurer Who Disappeared on McKinley in Alaska"), TBS, 2007.
- `こだわり人物伝:笑顔の冒険家 植村直己` ("Kodawari Jimbutsuden: The Smiling Adventurer Naomi Uemura"), NHK Educational TV, August 2010.
- `昭和偉人伝:冒険家 植村直己` ("Shōwa Great Figures: Adventurer Naomi Uemura"), BS Asahi, 2014.
- `歴史秘話ヒストリア:植村直己 北極圏1万2千キロ大冒険` ("Rekishi Hiwa Historia: Naomi Uemura's 12,000 km Arctic Adventure"), NHK General, 2014.
- `ザ・プロファイラー ~夢と野望の人生~:"死ぬも生きるも、ただ一人だ":冒険家・植村直己` ("The Profiler ~Life of Dreams and Ambitions~: 'Live or Die, Only One': Adventurer Naomi Uemura"), NHK BS Premium, 2015.
- `あの人は風でした:植村直己とその妻` ("He Was Like the Wind: Naomi Uemura and His Wife"), a television drama by TBS, aired in two parts in June 1985. Kiyoshi Nishikawa played Uemura, and Yukiyo Toake played his wife, Kimiko.
- `植村直己物語` (植村直己物語Uemura Naomi MonogatariJapanese, "The Story of Naomi Uemura"), a biographical film directed by Junya Sato, released in 1986. Toshiyuki Nishida played Uemura, and Chieko Baisho played Kimiko.
7.4. Music and Other Media
Uemura's life has also inspired musical compositions:
- `風を切って` ("Cutting the Wind"), composed by Hiroshi Hashimoto with lyrics by Takeshi Doi (1987), is an ensemble piece with vocals that celebrates Uemura's achievements. It is adopted in elementary school music textbooks by Kyoiku Geijutsusha.
- `星のクライマー` ("Star Climber"), composed by Reimy with lyrics by Yumi Matsutoya (1984), was written as a tribute to Uemura. It is featured on Reimy's album `"R"` (1984) and Yumi Matsutoya's album `Yuming Compositions: FACES` (2003).
His expeditions were also recorded on audio, such as the LP album `北極圏1万2千キロ犬橇の旅:植村直己:世紀の大冒険の記録` ("12,000 Kilometers Dog Sled Journey in the Arctic Circle: Naomi Uemura: Record of a Century's Great Adventure") released by RVC Corporation. Another LP, `植村直己:北極点単独犬橇旅行:北極点に立つ` ("Naomi Uemura: Solo Dog Sled Trip to the North Pole: Standing at the North Pole") by Canyon Records, included a large color poster, a luxurious photo book, and explanatory notes, with Uemura himself singing `Yukiyama Sanka` ("Snow Mountain Song").
8. Major Climbs and Expeditions Timeline
The following is a chronological summary of Naomi Uemura's most significant mountaineering ascents and expeditions throughout his career:
- 1965, April 23 - First ascent of Gojunba Kang (Cho Oyu II, 25 K ft (7.65 K m)) as part of the Meiji University mountaineering expedition team, with one Sherpa.
- 1966, July - Solo ascent of Mont Blanc (16 K ft (4.81 K m)), the highest peak in Europe (one of two common interpretations for Europe's highest peak).
- 1966, July 25 - Solo ascent of Matterhorn (15 K ft (4.48 K m)).
- 1966, October 24 - Solo ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro (19 K ft (5.90 K m)), the highest peak in Africa.
- 1968, February 5 - Solo ascent of Aconcagua (23 K ft (6.96 K m)), the highest peak in South America.
- 1968, April 20 - June 20 - Solo raft descent of the Amazon River for 3.7 K mile (6.00 K km).
- 1968, September 14 - Ascent of Mount Sanford (16 K ft (4.94 K m)).
- 1970, May 11 - Ascent of Mount Everest (29 K ft (8.85 K m)) as part of the Japanese Alpine Club expedition team, with Teruo Matsuura, becoming the first Japanese to summit the world's highest peak.
- 1970, August 26 - First solo ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley, 20 K ft (6.19 K m)), the highest peak in North America. This achievement completed his feat of becoming the first person to ascend the highest peaks on five continents.
- 1971, January 1 - Completion of the winter North Face of Grandes Jorasses (joint ascent).
- 1971, August 30 - October 20 - Solo walked 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) across the Japanese archipelago.
- 1972, September 11 - 1973, June 26 - Lived with Inuit in Siorapaluk, Greenland (including the 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) solo dog sled journey).
- 1973, February 4 - April 30 - Solo dog sled journey of 1.9 K mile (3.00 K km) in Greenland.
- 1974, December 29 - 1976, May 8 - Solo dog sled journey of 7.5 K mile (12.00 K km) in the Arctic Circle.
- 1976, July 31 - Ascent of Mount Elbrus (19 K ft (5.64 K m)), also considered Europe's highest peak by some.
- 1978, April 29 - World's first solo dog sled journey to the North Pole.
- 1978, August 22 - Solo dog sled traverse of Greenland.
- 1980, August 13 - Second winter ascent of Aconcagua (joint ascent).
- 1984, February 12 - World's first solo winter ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley).
Year | Japanese Title | English Title |
---|---|---|
1971 | 青春を山に賭けて | Betting the Youth on the Mountains |
1974 | 極北に駆ける | Run to the Far North |
1976 | 北極圏一万二千キロ | 12,000 Kilometers Above the Arctic Circle |
1978 | 北極点グリーンランド単独行 | Solo Trip to North Pole Greenland |
1980 | 冒険 | Adventures |