Kansai Yamamoto

1.1. Birth and Childhood

Yamamoto Kansai was born on 8 February 1944 in Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan, and later grew up in Gifu City, Gifu Prefecture. His childhood was complex due to his parents' divorce. He and his two brothers were taken in by their father, but due to his father's neglect, Kansai was eventually placed in a child welfare facility in Kōchi Prefecture. He later reunited with his father and settled in Gifu City, where his paternal grandmother resided. Throughout his early years, he experienced over ten school transfers in various cities, including Kochi and Osaka. His father eventually started a sewing business, and Kansai assisted with the sewing, even making school uniform alterations for friends in junior high school. This early experience fostered his aspiration to become a seamster, inspired by the fashion in the film Plein Soleil. He also developed an interest in performance, becoming a cheerleading captain and choreographing various routines.

1.2. Educational Background

Yamamoto attended Gifu Prefectural Gifu Technical High School. Although he initially desired to study architecture, the school did not offer that specific course. He instead enrolled in civil engineering, believing it to be a similar field, but found the curriculum focused on construction and encountered a challenging work environment, leading to disappointment. After high school, he moved to Tokyo for university. While studying English at Nihon University's College of Humanities and Sciences, he reconnected with his birth mother, who ran a dressmaking school in Yokohama. It was through her that he learned about the Soen Award, a prestigious fashion prize. He eventually dropped out of Nihon University in 1965 to fully dedicate himself to fashion. He self-studied fashion while apprenticing under renowned designers Junko Koshino and Hisashi Hosono. In 1967, he was awarded the Soen Prize by the Bunka Fashion College.

2.1. Early Career and Debut

After honing his skills under designers like Junko Koshino and Hisashi Hosono, Yamamoto established his own company, Yamamoto Kansai Company, Ltd., in Tokyo in 1971. In the same year, he made a groundbreaking debut in London, becoming the first Japanese designer to present a collection there. His collection, titled "Kansai in London," also debuted in the United States at Hess's Department Store in Allentown, Pennsylvania, a venue renowned for showcasing avant-garde collections. This debut marked the beginning of his international recognition.

2.2. International Recognition and Key Collaborations

Following his successful debut, Yamamoto expanded his presence in global fashion centers. He presented his first collection in Paris in 1975 and participated in New York Fashion Collection in 1979. His aesthetic was distinctively characterized by "wild maximalism" and "transgressive excess," often described as the antithesis of the minimalist Japanese concept of wabi-sabi. He gained significant fame for designing androgynous and futuristic stage costumes for iconic musician David Bowie, most notably for his Ziggy Stardust Tour. His "TOKYO POP" bodysuit for Bowie, a vibrant and sculptural piece, became particularly renowned. In 1977, Yamamoto received the Tokyo Fashion Editors Award.

2.3. Design Philosophy and Style

Yamamoto's core design philosophy revolved around the concept of Kabuku (歌舞く_Kabuku^Japanese), which embodies an eccentric, flamboyant, and unusual spirit, often associated with Kabuki theater. His designs prominently integrated traditional Japanese elements, such as motifs inspired by kimono patterns, the three-dimensional forms of Buddhist statues, and the fluid brushstrokes of calligraphy. While known for his elaborate haute couture, he also designed simpler, single-color cocktail dresses for the general public, demonstrating his versatility.

2.4. Brand Expansion and Evolution

Yamamoto's brand expanded globally with the establishment of "Boutique Kansai" stores in major international cities, including Paris, Milan, New York, and Madrid. He presented his final collection for the fall/winter season in 1992. After this, he largely stepped away from traditional fashion shows and sales to focus on a new career path as an event producer, creating large-scale performance art events he called "Super Shows." Despite his shift in focus, he continued to lend his name to various licensed products, ranging from eyeglasses to tableware. In 1999, he collaborated with Junko Koshino to create a modern version of the kimono, which helped revive interest in this traditional garment. He also returned to fashion occasionally, notably collaborating with Louis Vuitton for their Resort 2018 collection, which featured classic Japanese art and Kabuki-inspired patterns and prints.

3.1. Kansai Super Shows

Yamamoto's "Super Shows" were a unique form of performance art that combined fashion, music, dance, acrobatics, and elements of traditional Japanese festivals. These events were performed worldwide, drawing massive audiences.

Notable "Super Shows" include:

• Hello!! Russia (1993): Held in Moscow's Red Square, this event was particularly monumental, attracting a crowd of 120,000 people.
• Hello!! Vietnam (1995): Staged in Hanoi, Vietnam, on Ba Mẫu Lake within Lenin Park.
• Hello!! India (1997): Took place at the Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium in New Delhi, India.
• Hello Japan, Hello 21!! In Gifu (2000): This event, held at the Nagaragawa Stadium in Gifu, featured appearances by his daughter Mirai Yamamoto, Miyuki Matsuda, and Shofukutei Tsurube.
• Yamaguchi Genki Densetsu (2001): Part of the Yamaguchi Kirara Expo, held at the Super Theme Pavilion in Yamaguchi Kirara Expo Memorial Park Multi-Purpose Dome.
• Abordage - Approach Attack (2004): Held at the Nippon Budokan in Tokyo, participants included Show Aikawa, Aya Ueto, director Takashi Miike, Eiko Koike, Mirai Yamamoto, Kippei Shiina, and the comedy duo Chihara Brothers.
• Taiyo no Fune (Ship of the Sun) (2007): Performed at the Tokyo Dome, featuring Masahiro Matsuoka, Aya Ueto, Antonio Inoki, Yuki Kudo, and Tsuyoshi Nagabuchi.
• Inochi no Matsuri - Festival of Life (2009): Staged at the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park in Bali, Indonesia.
• Shichinin no Samurai (Seven Samurai) (2010): Presented at the Ariake Coliseum in Tokyo.
• Hello!! China (2012): Held at the Beijing Olympic Basketball Stadium to commemorate the 40th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Japan and China.
• Hello!! Istanbul (2014): Performed at the Esma Sultan Mansion in Istanbul, Turkey.

4.1. School Uniform Design

Kansai Yamamoto designed uniforms for numerous educational institutions across Japan, some of which are no longer in use. His contributions include:

• Hakuryo Junior and Senior High School in Hyōgo Prefecture
• Okayama Hakuryo Junior and Senior High School in Okayama Prefecture
• Mito Kiryo High School in Ibaraki Prefecture
• Kyoto Seian Girls' High School
• Nagasaki Nanzan Junior and Senior High School
• Nagano Prefectural Nakano High School
• Tomita High School (Gifu Prefecture)
• Takaoka Koryo High School in Toyama Prefecture (from 1992 to 1999)
• Toyama Prefectural Toyama Minami High School
• Gifu Prefectural Gifu Technical High School
• Kagawa National College of Technology, Takamatsu Campus
• Fukushima Prefectural Konan High School
• Sapporo Hokuto High School
• Kogakuin University Attached High School (from 1991 to 1998)
• Wakayama Prefectural Wakayama High School
• Hokkaido Kitami Hakuyo High School
• Kokushikan University's Setagaya Campus and Umegaoka Campus (10F Sky Lounge and B1F Student Cafeteria)

4.2. Transportation Design

Yamamoto made notable contributions to public transportation design:

• He designed the Keisei Electric Railway's New AE type Skyliner train, which began operation in 2010, connecting Narita International Airport with central Tokyo. For this project, he personally oversaw the selection of the train's body color by having seven candidate colors directly painted onto the vehicle for evaluation. He also designed the "SKYLiNER" logo type.
• He designed uniforms for Keisei Electric Railway's crew members and station staff, unveiled in 2010.

5.1. Notable Exhibitions

In 2008, an exhibition titled "Netsuki Shinten: Kansai Genki Shugi" (Passionate Exhibit: The Energy Principle of Kansai) was held at the Edo-Tokyo Museum. This exhibit showcased his vibrant and energetic design philosophy. A major retrospective of Yamamoto's work was also presented at the Philadelphia Museum of Art in 2009. He held a smaller-scale fashion show in Tokyo in 2013 and a series of live fashion shows at the Victoria and Albert Museum in the same year. In July 2013, he also made a return to the fashion industry with a showing at the 19th New Britain Mask Festival in Kokopo, Papua New Guinea.

7.1. Film and Television

Yamamoto made appearances as an actor and guest in several productions:

• Film: He played the role of Sone Takashi in the 2003 film Ao no Honoo (The Blue Flame).
• Television: He appeared in TV programs such as Ai no Ryukichi, Turning Point, and Chugakusei Nikki. A documentary titled Watashi ga Kodomo Datta Koro Dasshutsu Kansai Yamamoto (When I Was a Child: Escape Kansai Yamamoto) aired on NHK on October 1, 2008, detailing his childhood.

7.2. Commercials and Advertising

Yamamoto's unique style was utilized in several advertising campaigns:

• He appeared in commercials for Nestle Japan's "Gold Blend" coffee.
• He participated in campaigns for Konica Minolta's "Sakuracolor Hyakunem Print" (Sakura Color Hundred-Year Print).
• He co-starred with his daughter, Mirai Yamamoto, in commercials for the 10th generation Toyota Corolla Axio (E140 late model) for the "Just Sizing - Corolla Axio is Fresh" campaign from October 2008 to March 2009.

9.1. Family Relationships

Yamamoto's family background was complex. His parents divorced when he was young, and he and his two brothers were initially raised by their father. However, his father's neglectful and irresponsible behavior, including leaving Kansai in charge of the family business while still a junior high student, led to Kansai experiencing difficult and lonely times. This experience profoundly impacted him, and he vowed not to be like his father, determining to protect his wife and children with his life once he married.

He had a daughter, actress Mirai Yamamoto. He named her "Mirai" (meaning "future") during a period of financial hardship as a designer, entrusting her with his hopes for the future. He deeply cherished his daughter, doting on her. When Mirai married actor Kippei Shiina, Kansai not only designed the wedding outfits for both his daughter and son-in-law but also produced the entire wedding ceremony. Mirai Yamamoto and Kippei Shiina later divorced.

Kansai Yamamoto had two biological brothers, one of whom is Yoshihiko Yamamoto, who served as the Vice President and later Chairman of Kansai Super Studio. He also had a half-brother, actor Yusuke Iseya, who is 32 years his junior and two years younger than his daughter, Mirai.

10.1. Illness and Passing

In February 2020, Kansai Yamamoto was diagnosed with acute myeloid leukemia. He publicly announced his illness and ongoing treatment on March 31, 2020. He passed away on July 21, 2020, at the age of 76, peacefully surrounded by his family. His daughter, actress Mirai Yamamoto, first announced his death via her Instagram account, followed by an official announcement from Kansai Yamamoto's own official account.

11.1. Cultural and Artistic Impact

Yamamoto's distinctive and avant-garde designs significantly influenced global fashion trends and performing arts. His use of the Kabuku theme, characterized by its eccentric, flamboyant, and transgressive spirit, challenged conventional fashion norms. He was instrumental in popularizing Japanese aesthetics on the international stage by seamlessly integrating traditional elements such as kimono patterns, the three-dimensional forms found in Buddhist statues, and the dynamic lines of calligraphy into his modern Western-inspired garments. His collaborations with iconic figures like David Bowie not only cemented his place in fashion history but also showcased how his designs could become an integral part of an artist's persona, blurring the lines between fashion and performance art. His "Super Shows" further demonstrated his vision of fashion as a multidisciplinary art form, combining music, dance, acrobatics, and elaborate costumes into immersive cultural experiences.

11.2. Final Art Work

Yamamoto's final art piece was created for the "BUSTERCALL=ONE PIECE Exhibition." It was a "Pirate King's Coat" designed for the character Monkey D. Luffy from the popular manga and anime series One Piece, conceptualizing what the character might wear upon obtaining the "One Piece" treasure. This work served as a poignant final tribute to his enduring creative spirit and his connection to popular culture.