Hwang Hye-seong

1. Life

Hwang Hye-seong's life journey was marked by a deep commitment to learning and a passion for preserving Korea's culinary traditions, from her early education in Korea and Japan to her pivotal apprenticeship with the last Joseon court lady.

1.1. Childhood and Education

Hwang Hye-seong was born on July 5, 1920, in Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province, then part of Korea, Empire of Japan. She was the eldest daughter of a prominent Pyeonghae Hwang family, which owned extensive land, estimated at 5,000 seok (a traditional unit of land yield, indicating significant wealth). Following a traditional belief that having multiple foster mothers would prolong life, she had five such mothers, including a wet nurse, a carrying mother, a shaman mother, and a Buddhist monk from Gwangdeoksa as her "bald mother."

She began her formal education at Cheonan Ordinary School, where she initially struggled, failing her first semester. However, she persevered and ultimately graduated at the top of her class. After completing her second year at Gongju Public High School, her cousin, who was studying at Kyushu University in Japan, persuaded her family to allow her to study abroad. She subsequently moved to Fukuoka, Japan, where she graduated from Chukja Girls' High School (筑紫高等女学校_{Chikushi Kōtō Jogakkō}^Japanese, now Chikushi Jogakuin Junior and Senior High School). Following this, she enrolled in the Department of Domestic Studies at Kyoto Women's Professional School (京都女子専門学校_{Kyōto Joshi Senmon Gakkō}^Japanese, now Kyoto Women's University), where she specialized in Japanese cuisine and Western nutrition.

1.2. Early Career and Apprenticeship

Upon graduating in 1941, Hwang Hye-seong began her teaching career at Daedong Girls' High School (now Daejeon Girls' High School) as a home economics teacher. During her tenure, she also served as a second-year homeroom teacher, dormitory supervisor, and instructor for the cycling and gymnastics clubs. A notable incident occurred when the school principal spoke disparagingly of Korean volunteer soldiers, leading Hwang Hye-seong to comfort her Korean students and encourage them to strive for national independence and enlightenment, an act that caused her considerable trouble.

In 1940, she lost her maternal grandmother, followed by her father in 1941, and her mother in 1942. With the help of her paternal uncle, she moved to Donam-dong, Seoul, with her younger brother. In 1942, she was appointed assistant professor in the Department of Domestic Studies at Sookmyung Women's University (then Sookmyung Women's Professional School), where she taught nutritional science and Korean cuisine. Recognizing her limited knowledge of traditional Korean cooking, she was recommended by Oda Shogo, a consultant to the Yi Royal Household, to seek out Han Hui-sun. Han Hui-sun was the last kitchen court lady of the Joseon Dynasty, residing at Nakseonjae in Changdeokgung Palace. Hwang Hye-seong became her dedicated apprentice, learning the intricacies of Korean royal court cuisine for 30 years.

In January 1944, she married Han Byeong-deok, an employee at Hwashin Department Store, at Joseon Shrine. They had five children: eldest son Han Mun-gyu (born 1945), eldest daughter Han Bok-ryeo (born 1947), second daughter Han Bok-sun (born 1949), third daughter Han Bok-jin (born 1952), and second son Han Yong-gyu (born 1957). During the Korean War and the January 4th Retreat, Sookmyung Women's University evacuated to Busan, leading Hwang Hye-seong to resign from her professorship there. She then took up a position as an instructor at Yeongdeungpo Girls' High School. Subsequently, she taught at Myongji University before becoming a professor in the Home Economics Department at Hanyang University, which was conveniently located near Han Hui-sun's residence in Wangsimni.

2. Major Activities and Achievements

Hwang Hye-seong made profound contributions to Korean royal court cuisine through her extensive academic career and unwavering efforts in its preservation and popularization.

3. Publications and Research

Hwang Hye-seong authored numerous influential works that documented and analyzed Korean royal court and traditional cuisine. Her publications include:

• Ijogungjeongyoritonggo (이조궁정요리통고_{Ijo Gungjeong Yori Tonggo}^Korean; 李朝宮廷料理通考_{Ijo Gungjeong Yori Tonggo}^Korean) (joint work with Han Hui-sun, 1957)
• Encyclopedias of Korean Traditional Cuisine (1976)
• Cuisine of Korea (한국의 요리_{Hanguk-ui Yori}^Korean; 韓國의 料理_{Hanguk-ui Yori}^Korean) (1982)
• Korean Food (한국음식_{Hanguk Eumsik}^Korean) (1985)
• Taste of Tradition (전통의 맛_{Jeontong-ui Mat}^Korean) (1985)
• Korean Food Life (한국의 식_{Hanguk-ui Sik}^Korean; 韓國의 食_{Hanguk-ui Sik}^Korean) (1987)
• Traditional Korean Food (한국의 전통 음식_{Hanguk-ui Jeontong Eumsik}^Korean) (1989)
• Joseon Royal Court Cuisine (조선왕조 궁중 음식_{Joseon Wangjo Gungjung Eumsik}^Korean) (1993)
• Overall View of Korean Cuisine - 6th Food Life of the Court (1997)
• Our Cuisine 100 (1998)
• Royal Court Cuisine (궁중음식_{Gungjung Eumsik}^Korean)
• Esthetics of Korea (한국의 미각_{Hanguk-ui Migak}^Korean; 韓國의 味覺_{Hanguk-ui Migak}^Korean)
• The Time I Prepared 12 Dishes of Surasang (열두첩 수라상으로 차린 세월_{Yeolducheop Surasang-euro Charin Sewol}^Korean)
• A Review Study of the Royal Banquet Menu on the 24th of King Kojong in Chosun Dynasty (고종24년 진찬의궤 찬물에 대한 분석적 연구_{Gojong 24nyeon Jinchan Uigwe Chanmul-e Daehan Bunseokjeok Yeongu}^Korean)

4. Family

Hwang Hye-seong had two sons and three daughters, all of whom pursued careers related to Korean royal court cuisine and food culture. Her eldest daughter, Han Bok-ryeo, became the director of the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine and was designated as the third-generation skill holder of Joseon Royal Court Cuisine. Her second daughter, Han Bok-sun, manages the Han Bok-sun Food Culture Laboratory. Her third daughter, Han Bok-jin, serves as the Dean of the College of Culture and Tourism at Jeonju University.

5. Awards and Honors

Hwang Hye-seong received numerous accolades for her lifelong dedication and significant contributions to the preservation and modernization of Korean royal court cuisine:

• Designated as the second skill holder of National Intangible Cultural Property No. 38, Joseon Royal Court Cuisine (1973).
• Awarded the Order of Civil Merit (Mugunghwa Jang, 목련장_Moknyeonjang^Korean) (1985).
• Awarded the Order of Cultural Merit (Bogwanjang, 보관장_Bogwanjang^Korean) (1990).
• Designated as an Honorary Possessor of Joseon Royal Court Cuisine (August 2006).

6. Death

Hwang Hye-seong passed away from old age at 12:30 PM on December 14, 2006, at the Seoul Medical Center in Seoul. She was 86 years old.

7. Legacy and Impact

Hwang Hye-seong's work profoundly influenced the preservation and modernization of Korean royal court cuisine, shaping Korean cultural identity. Her systematic research, academic contributions, and dedicated efforts in transmitting this culinary heritage ensured its survival and accessibility. By documenting and popularizing royal recipes, she transformed a once exclusive tradition into a source of national pride and a subject of academic study. Her legacy continues through the institutions she founded and the work of her descendants, who carry on her mission to promote Korean food culture.