1. Overview
Mark Joseph Inglis is a renowned New Zealand mountaineer, researcher, winemaker, and motivational speaker, widely recognized as the first double amputee to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Born on September 27, 1959, Inglis's life has been marked by extraordinary resilience, pioneering achievements in sports and mountaineering, and significant ethical challenges. After a severe mountaineering accident in 1982 on Aoraki / Mount Cook, which resulted in the amputation of both his legs due to frostbite, he defied expectations by returning to elite sports, earning a silver medal in cycling at the 2000 Summer Paralympics and subsequently re-summitting Aoraki / Mount Cook. His historic ascent of Mount Everest in 2006, while a testament to human endurance, became inextricably linked to the controversial death of British climber David Sharp, sparking widespread ethical debates within the mountaineering community. Beyond his athletic and adventurous pursuits, Inglis has contributed to leukaemia research, founded a winery, authored four books, and engaged in extensive philanthropy and motivational speaking, advocating for persons with disabilities.
2. Early Life and Background
Mark Inglis's formative years laid the groundwork for a life of both intellectual curiosity and daring adventure.
2.1. Childhood and Education
Born in Geraldine, New Zealand, Mark Inglis pursued an academic path before his notable career in mountaineering. He attended Lincoln University, New Zealand, where he earned a degree in Human Biochemistry. Following his graduation, Inglis engaged in significant research related to leukaemia, showcasing his dedication to scientific inquiry. In April 2009, Lincoln University further recognized his contributions by bestowing upon him an honorary doctorate in Natural Resources.
2.2. Early Mountaineering Activities
Inglis commenced his professional career in 1979 as a dedicated search and rescue mountaineer. He worked for the Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park, an environment that would later become the site of a life-altering event. During this period, he honed the skills and resilience that would define his future endeavors.
3. 1982 Aoraki/Mount Cook Accident
In November 1982, Mark Inglis experienced a catastrophic mountaineering accident on Aoraki / Mount Cook that profoundly changed his life. While climbing the mountain, he and his climbing partner, Philip Doole, became trapped in a snow cave for 13 agonizing days. This prolonged entrapment was caused by an intense blizzard that made rescue efforts impossible for nearly two weeks.
The incident became a major media event across New Zealand, drawing national attention to the plight of the stranded climbers. Despite the eventual rescue, the extreme conditions resulted in severe frostbite in both of Inglis's legs, as well as Doole's. Following his rescue, both of Inglis's legs were amputated 5.5 in (14 cm) below the knee. This event marked a pivotal turning point in his life, leading him down a path that would combine extraordinary physical achievements with advocacy for persons with disabilities.
4. Post-Amputation Career and Achievements
Despite the life-altering loss of his legs, Mark Inglis demonstrated remarkable resilience, pivoting his career towards competitive sports and returning to the challenging world of mountaineering with prosthetic limbs.
4.1. Paralympic Cycling Career
After his amputation, Inglis transitioned into Paralympic sports, focusing on cycle racing. His dedication to the sport culminated in a significant achievement at the 2000 Summer Paralympics held in Sydney, Australia. There, he competed in the track cycling events and earned a silver medal in the 1 km time trial, showcasing his exceptional athletic prowess and determination.
4.2. Return to Mountaineering
Defying the physical limitations imposed by his double amputation, Inglis made the audacious decision to return to mountaineering, a sport he had pursued professionally before his accident. He embarked on a series of ambitious climbs, culminating in historic achievements on some of the world's highest peaks.
4.2.1. Re-summit of Aoraki/Mount Cook
On January 7, 2002, Mark Inglis successfully re-summited Aoraki / Mount Cook, the very mountain where he had lost his legs 20 years prior. This achievement was particularly poignant as he accomplished it using prosthetic legs. A previous attempt to re-summit had been thwarted by technical issues with his legs, making this success even more meaningful. The entire journey and his triumph were meticulously documented in the film No Mean Feat: The Mark Inglis Story, which captured the essence of his inspiring comeback.
4.2.2. Cho Oyu Ascent
On September 27, 2004, Mark Inglis added another formidable peak to his climbing resume by successfully ascending Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest mountain in the world. Accomplishing this feat alongside three other climbers, Inglis earned the distinction of becoming only the second double amputee in history to summit a mountain greater than 26 K ft (8.00 K m) in height. This climb further solidified his reputation as a pioneering figure in high-altitude mountaineering for climbers with disabilities.
4.2.3. Mount Everest Summit Ascent
On May 15, 2006, after an arduous 40-day expedition, Mark Inglis made history by becoming the first ever double amputee to reach the summit of Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. The ascent was fraught with challenges, including a perilous incident during acclimatization at an altitude of approximately 21 K ft (6.40 K m), where a fixed-line anchor failed, causing Inglis to fall and break one of his carbon fiber prosthetic legs in half. Demonstrating remarkable ingenuity and resilience, the broken leg was temporarily repaired on the mountain using duct tape, while a spare prosthetic was brought up from base camp. Inglis's extraordinary Everest expedition was extensively filmed and featured as a central storyline in the Discovery Channel television series Everest: Beyond the Limit.
5. David Sharp Controversy
Mark Inglis's historic ascent of Mount Everest in 2006 was significantly overshadowed by a highly publicized and contentious incident involving the death of British climber David Sharp. The events surrounding Sharp's demise ignited a widespread ethical debate within the global mountaineering community regarding the responsibilities of climbers on high-altitude expeditions.
5.1. Incident on Everest
During their final push to the summit of Mount Everest, Mark Inglis and a party of 18 other climbers encountered a distressed British climber named David Sharp. Sharp was in grave condition, suffering from the effects of extreme altitude. Despite his obvious predicament, Inglis and his climbing party continued their ascent towards the summit. This decision to prioritize their summit attempt over rendering aid effectively left Sharp to die, as he subsequently succumbed to his condition. Inglis later attempted to dismiss criticism by falsely claiming that the decision to leave Sharp was made by expedition leader Russell Brice, who was at the base camp. Inglis also stated that at altitudes of 28 K ft (8.50 K m), it is "extremely difficult to keep yourself alive, let alone anyone else alive," implying that assistance was practically impossible.
However, expedition leader Russell Brice publicly contradicted Inglis's account in an e-mailed statement on June 10, asserting that he only learned of David Sharp's severe distress when his team contacted him via radio during their descent from the summit. Brice maintained a comprehensive log of all radio communications received that night, and there was no record of any call from Mark Inglis concerning Sharp's condition prior to their summit push. This was further corroborated by complete video footage recorded by a Discovery Channel crew present at the base camp. The evidence indicated that Inglis's group had indeed continued to the summit, passing David Sharp whom they knew to be alive, without offering any assistance. Upon their descent several hours later, passing back through the same area, the group found Sharp near death. While Inglis himself did not render aid during the descent, his fellow climber, Maxime Chaya, and Chaya's Sherpa mountaineering partner did attempt to help Sharp, but to no avail.
5.2. Public and Expert Reactions
The incident sparked widespread criticism and intense ethical debates regarding the moral obligations of climbers in the death zone. Prominent figures in the mountaineering world voiced their condemnation, most notably Sir Edmund Hillary, the first person to summit Everest alongside Tenzing Norgay. Hillary stated unequivocally that he "would have abandoned any attempt at the summit to help a fellow climber," directly criticizing Inglis's decision.
While some other climbers echoed Inglis's assessment that little could be done for a seriously ill person at such extreme altitudes, others challenged this view. Phil Ainslie, a mountaineer and scientist at the University of Otago, argued that it might have been possible to revive Sharp with bottled oxygen and facilitate his safe descent. The controversy cast a long shadow over Inglis's historic achievement, prompting a critical examination of the principles of human solidarity versus individual ambition in high-stakes mountaineering.
6. Other Activities and Public Roles
Beyond his celebrated mountaineering and athletic endeavors, Mark Inglis has engaged in a diverse array of professional and philanthropic activities, leveraging his unique experiences to inspire and contribute to various fields.
6.1. Research and Winemaking
Building upon his academic background in biochemistry, Inglis has conducted research into conditions such as leukaemia. His scientific interests have also extended into the business world, as he ventured into winemaking, establishing a winery. This blend of scientific pursuit and entrepreneurial spirit highlights the breadth of his professional engagements.
6.2. Motivational Speaking and Philanthropy
Mark Inglis has forged a successful career as a motivational speaker, sharing his powerful story of overcoming adversity to inspire audiences globally. He is also deeply involved in philanthropy, serving as a goodwill ambassador for the Everest Rescue Trust, an organization dedicated to enhancing safety and rescue capabilities in the Himalayas. Furthermore, Inglis founded Limbs4All, a New Zealand-based charitable trust specifically designed to support individuals with disabilities. His commitment to empowering others is also evident in his creation of PeakFuel, a brand of sports drinks and energy gels, developed to assist athletes in reaching their maximum potential.
7. Books Authored
Mark Inglis is an accomplished author, having penned four books that recount his extraordinary life experiences and offer insights into his resilient philosophy.
- No Mean Feat (published in 2002) documents the harrowing account of his entrapment and rescue from Aoraki / Mount Cook, his subsequent successful re-summit of the same mountain in 2002, and his dedicated efforts in the Paralympics.
- To the Max: a Teen Reader's Version of No Mean Feat (published in 2003) is an adaptation of his first book, specifically tailored for a younger audience, making his inspiring story accessible to teenagers.
- Off the Front Foot (published in 2003) delves into his personal philosophy on confronting and managing both the positive and negative aspects of life, offering guidance on resilience and adaptation.
- No Legs on Everest (published in 2006) provides a detailed and comprehensive account of his historic ascent of Mount Everest, including his earlier successful climb of Cho Oyu.
8. Personal Life
Mark Inglis resides in Hanmer Springs, New Zealand, with his wife, Anne. They have three children. His public profile has been further elevated through television appearances, including being honored in 2007 on TVNZ's This Is Your Life (New Zealand TV series), a program celebrating significant New Zealanders. In 2024, he also appeared on the New Zealand panel show 7 Days (New Zealand game show).
9. Honors and Awards
Mark Inglis has received significant recognition for his exceptional achievements and his contributions to society, particularly for his advocacy for persons with disabilities. In the 2002 Queen's Birthday and Golden Jubilee Honours, Inglis was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit (ONZM). This prestigious honor acknowledged his dedicated services to persons with disabilities. In April 2009, he was further recognized with an honorary doctorate in Natural Resources from his alma mater, Lincoln University, New Zealand, celebrating his broad contributions beyond mountaineering.
10. Legacy and Public Perception
Mark Inglis's life and achievements have left a complex and multifaceted legacy, shaping both the public perception of disabled athletes and sparking crucial ethical dialogues within the mountaineering community.
10.1. Mountaineering Achievements and Inspiration
Mark Inglis is widely celebrated for his groundbreaking mountaineering achievements, particularly his historic ascent of Mount Everest as the first double amputee to reach its summit. This accomplishment, alongside his re-summit of Aoraki / Mount Cook and ascent of Cho Oyu, cemented his status as a pioneer in high-altitude climbing. His remarkable resilience and refusal to be defined by his disability have served as a profound source of inspiration for countless individuals, especially those with disabilities, demonstrating that severe physical challenges do not necessarily limit the pursuit of extraordinary goals. His story is often highlighted as a testament to the power of human spirit and determination.
10.2. Ethical Controversies and Historical Evaluation
Despite his inspiring feats, Mark Inglis's public image and historical evaluation are inextricably linked to the ethical controversy surrounding the death of David Sharp during his 2006 Everest expedition. The incident, which involved Inglis and his climbing party proceeding past a dying climber without rendering assistance, ignited a significant debate about the moral responsibilities of climbers in the death zone and the sometimes brutal realities of extreme high-altitude mountaineering.
This controversy has led to ongoing discussions within the mountaineering community and among the public regarding the balance between individual ambition, the commercialization of Everest expeditions, and the fundamental human obligation to aid others in distress. While Inglis's physical achievements remain undeniable, the David Sharp incident has ensured that his legacy is viewed through a lens that critically examines the ethical implications of his actions, contributing to a broader re-evaluation of high-altitude climbing ethics.