1. Early life and education
Kim Yeong-do's formative years were marked by a relocation in his early childhood and a strong academic pursuit that laid the foundation for his diverse interests.
1.1. Birth and childhood
Kim Yeong-do was born on October 18, 1924, in Jeongju County, North Pyongan Province, during the Japanese colonial period in Korea. At the age of five, his family relocated to Pyongyang.
1.2. Education and early interests
He received his formal education at Pyeongyang Higher Common School (평양고등보통학교Pyeongyang Godeung Botong HakgyoKorean). He later graduated from Seoul National University's College of Liberal Arts and Sciences, specializing in Philosophy. During his time in common school, Kim developed a profound interest in mountaineering after reading books by the Japanese mountaineer Ryokichi Oshima. This early fascination led him to extensively read mountaineering literature in English, Japanese, and German, laying the groundwork for his future expeditions and literary contributions.
2. Career beginnings
Before his prominent political and mountaineering leadership roles, Kim Yeong-do engaged in military service and an academic career.
2.1. Military service
During the Korean War, Kim Yeong-do enlisted as a student volunteer in the Republic of Korea Army. He served as an interpreter officer and was eventually transferred to the reserve forces with the rank of Captain in 1955.
2.2. Teaching and academic career
Following his military service, Kim Yeong-do transitioned into an academic and teaching career. From 1956 to 1963, he worked as a teacher at Seongdong High School in Seoul. Concurrently, he also held a position as a philosophy professor at the Korea Military Academy.
3. Political career
Kim Yeong-do's political career saw him enter national politics and serve in significant governmental and party roles.
3.1. Entry into politics and party roles
Kim Yeong-do entered the political arena in 1963, joining the Democratic Republican Party. Within the party, he held several key positions, including Head of Propaganda, Chief of Planning and Coordination, and Deputy Secretary, playing an active role in the party's operations.
3.2. 9th National Assembly activities
From 1973 to 1979, Kim Yeong-do served as a member of the 9th National Assembly under the Yushin Jeonguhoe (유신정우회Yushin JeonguhoeKorean). During this period, the Yushin Jeonguhoe was a political organization formed under the Yushin Constitution, which centralized power under President Park Chung-hee. His tenure as a legislator involved participating in the assembly's work during a significant era of South Korean political history.
4. Mountaineering and exploration activities
Kim Yeong-do made profound contributions to Korean mountaineering through his organizational efforts, leadership of major expeditions, and academic endeavors.
4.1. Contributions to alpine infrastructure and organizations
Between 1970 and 1971, Kim Yeong-do spearheaded the construction of 34 mountain shelters across various famous mountains in South Korea, significantly enhancing alpine infrastructure for mountaineers. In 1971, he provided financial support for a Korean expedition to Lhotse Shar in the Himalaya Mountains. His leadership extended to the Korean Alpine Federation, where he served as Vice Chairman from 1971 to 1976. Subsequently, from October 1976 to December 1980, he held the esteemed position of the 7th Chairman of the Federation.
4.2. Major expeditions
Under his leadership, Korea embarked on historically significant expeditions to some of the world's most formidable natural environments.
4.2.1. 1977 Everest expedition
In 1977, while serving as Chairman of the Korean Alpine Federation, Kim Yeong-do led the first Korean expedition to Mount Everest. On September 15, 1977, under his leadership, Go Sang-don (고상돈Go Sang-donKorean) became the first Korean to successfully summit Everest. This achievement made South Korea the eighth country in the world to have a climber reach the summit of the world's highest peak. The expedition comprised a total of 18 members.
4.2.2. 1978 Arctic expedition
In 1978, Kim Yeong-do led Korea's first Arctic expedition. This pioneering venture involved the exploration of Greenland and successfully reached a latitude of 80 degrees 2 minutes 7 seconds north within the Arctic Circle, marking a significant milestone in Korean exploration history.
4.3. Director of Korea Mountaineering Research Institute
From 1982 onwards, Kim Yeong-do assumed the role of Director of the Korea Mountaineering Research Institute (한국등산연구소Hanguk Deungsan YeongusoKorean), further contributing to the academic and research aspects of mountaineering in Korea.
5. Writings and translations
Kim Yeong-do was also a prolific writer and translator, contributing significantly to mountaineering literature and philosophy in Korea.
5.1. Major works
He authored several notable essay collections centered on mountaineering. Among his published works are 'My Everest' (나의 에베레스트Na-ui EbereoseuteuKorean), 'Are We Climbing Mountains?' (우리는 산에 오르고 있는가Urineun Sane Oreugo InneungaKorean), and 'Mountain Philosophy' (산의 사상San-ui SasangKorean). These works explore various themes related to the human experience in the mountains, philosophical reflections on climbing, and his personal experiences.
5.2. Translation activities
In addition to his original writings, Kim Yeong-do played a crucial role in introducing international mountaineering literature to Korean readers. He translated significant works by renowned mountaineers and authors, including Reinhold Messner, Yvon Chouinard, Edward Whymper, and John Hunt.
6. Personal life
Kim Yeong-do was a member of the Gimhae Kim clan (김해 김씨Gimhae Kim-ssiKorean) and identified as a Christian.
7. Awards and honors
Throughout his life, Kim Yeong-do received several accolades recognizing his profound impact on Korean mountaineering and culture. In 2012, to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Korean Alpine Federation, he was honored as one of the "50 people who shined the Korean Alpine Federation." In 2023, he was posthumously awarded the Special Achievement Award by the Ulju Mountain Film Festival. The award ceremony took place on October 20, 2023, just one day before his passing, and his son accepted the award on his behalf.
8. Death
Kim Yeong-do passed away on October 21, 2023, at the age of 99, in his home in Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi Province, South Korea, due to old age.
9. Legacy and assessment
Kim Yeong-do's legacy is defined by his profound and multifaceted contributions to both mountaineering and public life in South Korea. As a mountaineer, he is celebrated as a pioneer who elevated Korea's status on the global stage through the first successful Everest ascent and the groundbreaking Arctic expedition. His efforts in building mountain shelters and leading the Korean Alpine Federation significantly contributed to the infrastructure and organizational development of alpine activities within the country, fostering a wider culture of mountaineering.
In his political career, Kim Yeong-do served as a member of the National Assembly during the Yushin era, a period characterized by authoritarianism under President Park Chung-hee. His affiliation with the Yushin Jeonguhoe places his political contributions within a complex historical context, where democratic development was suppressed. While his specific legislative contributions during this period are not extensively detailed, his participation in the assembly indicates his involvement at a high level of governance during a controversial time.
Beyond these roles, his intellectual contributions as an essayist and translator enriched the philosophical and literary landscape of Korean mountaineering. His writings encouraged deeper reflection on the relationship between humanity and the mountains, while his translations opened up global perspectives to Korean readers. Kim Yeong-do is remembered as a pivotal figure who bridged the worlds of arduous physical exploration and thoughtful intellectual discourse, leaving an enduring mark on Korean society through his adventurous spirit, organizational leadership, and intellectual pursuits, despite the complex political environment in which part of his career unfolded.