1. Overview
Jan Hojer, born on February 9, 1992, in Cologne, Germany, is a German professional rock climber specializing in bouldering and sport climbing, with a height of 74 in (188 cm), a weight of 170 lb (77 kg), and an ape index of +3.9 in (10 cm). He is renowned for his significant achievements in competition climbing, including winning the seasonal title of the IFSC Climbing World Cup in bouldering in 2014 and securing two gold medals at the IFSC Climbing European Championships in bouldering (2015, 2017) and one in combined (2017). Hojer also earned a silver medal at the 2017 World Games in bouldering. He qualified for and competed in the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, finishing 12th. His distinctive climbing style, characterized by his long reach and dynamic movements, has earned him nicknames such as "the German beast" or "Beast," often described as "destroying problems." Beyond competitions, Hojer has achieved notable success in outdoor climbing, including redpointing some of the world's most challenging routes and boulder problems.
2. Early Life and Introduction to Climbing
Jan Hojer began his climbing journey at a young age, influenced by his sister. He started participating in German lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010, he competed in the Lead Climbing World Cup. However, as his performance in lead climbing was not consistently outstanding, he decided to shift his focus. In 2011, Hojer transitioned from lead climbing to specializing in bouldering, a discipline where he would soon achieve significant success.
3. Climbing Career
Jan Hojer's climbing career is marked by a strategic shift from lead climbing to bouldering, leading to numerous victories in both national and international competitions, and significant achievements in outdoor climbing.

3.1. Competition Climbing
After transitioning to bouldering in 2011, Jan Hojer quickly began to achieve notable results in competition climbing. His breakthrough came in 2012 when he secured fifth place at the IFSC Climbing World Championships. He further solidified his position in the sport by winning the seasonal title of the Bouldering IFSC Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finishing second in the 2015 season.
Hojer has also been highly successful at the IFSC Climbing European Championships, winning gold medals in bouldering in both 2015 and 2017. In 2017, he also claimed a gold medal in the combined format at the European Championships. That same year, he earned a silver medal in bouldering at the World Games held in Wrocław, Poland.
Domestically, Hojer has demonstrated his versatility by winning national championships across all climbing disciplines in Germany. He won the German National Lead Championships in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering, he claimed national titles in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, and placed second in 2017. He has not competed in bouldering national championships since 2017. In 2018, Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format, and in 2019, he secured a victory in speed climbing, completing his collection of national titles across all disciplines.
In 2019, Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse, France. At the Tokyo Olympics, he finished 12th out of 20 competitors. Hojer is recognized for his distinctive dynamic climbing style, which leverages his long limbs and reach, often leading to his movements being described as "destroying problems." This powerful approach has earned him the nicknames "the German beast" or simply "Beast."
3.2. Outdoor Climbing Achievements
Beyond the competition circuit, Jan Hojer has also achieved remarkable feats in outdoor rock climbing. In May 2010, he successfully redpointed Action Directe, a sport climbing route in the Frankenjura region of Germany, graded 9a, which is still considered one of the most difficult routes in the world.
From 2013 to 2015, Hojer completed several challenging outdoor boulder problems graded 8C. These include:
- Quoi de Neuf in Fontainebleau, France, on November 21, 2017.
- From Dirt Grows the Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland, on March 8, 2015.
- The Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano, Switzerland, on April 11, 2014.
- Le Marathon de Boissy in Fontainebleau, France, in March 2014, which was a first ascent.
- Trip Hop in Fontainebleau, France, in October 2013.
- The Big Island in Fontainebleau, France, in January 2013.
He also completed boulder problems graded 8B+, including:
- Jour de Chasse in Fontainebleau, France, in December 2013, which was a first ascent. Hojer initially graded it as a soft 8C, with some repeaters suggesting it might be easier if a heel hook is used, which Hojer reportedly did not employ.
- Dreamtime in Cresciano, Switzerland, on February 18, 2013. Hojer rated this problem as 8C, stating it was "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried."
In 2018, Hojer completed the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route Es Pontàs in Mallorca, Spain, a route graded 9a+.
4. Competition Results
4.1. Climbing World Cup
Discipline | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 22 | 22 | 43 | - | - | - | - | 33 | - | 17 |
Bouldering | - | - | - | 33 | 20 | 8 | 1 | 2 | 9 | 7 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 29 |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 5 | - | 7 |
4.2. Climbing World Championships
Discipline | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 30 | - | - | 30 | - | 29 |
Bouldering | 39 | 46 | 5 | 3 | 27 | 9 |
Speed | - | - | - | 30 | - | 33 |
Combined | - | - | - | 2 | - | 3 |
4.3. Climbing European Championships
Discipline | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 41 | - | - | 21 |
Bouldering | - | 20 | 1 | 1 |
Speed | - | - | - | 23 |
Combined | - | - | - | 1 |
4.4. Medal Tally
Jan Hojer has accumulated a notable number of medals throughout his career, particularly in the Bouldering World Cup. His total medal count from the IFSC Climbing World Cup in bouldering is 12, comprising 6 gold, 4 silver, and 2 bronze medals.
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
2013 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2014 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
2015 | 1 | 1 | ||
2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
2018 | 0 | |||
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 6 | 4 | 2 | 12 |